Discovery Program
L’Acadie Blanc - Nova Scotia’s quintessential varietal
Defining L’Acadie:
by Mark DeWolf, Regional Editor
L’Acadie has long been regarded as Nova Scotia’s equivalent to Chardonnay – a grape with broad enough shoulders to handle, and a willingness to mold to, a number of winemaker techniques.
Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc is typically a medium bodied wine with grassy and citrus aromatics not dissimilar to Sauvignon Blanc, but with a mineral edge that is uniquely Nova Scotian. The wine is generally noted for its crisp acidity and good length of finish. Although the wine lends itself to oak enhancement, the best examples are typically un-oaked.
On the afternoon of June 30th, at the 5 Fisherman Restaurant in downtown Halifax, winemakers, winegrowers, writers, sommeliers, and a handful of other industry notables gathered to take part in an Appellation Discovery Tasting of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc. In our search for the common and defining character of Nova Scotia’s signature white grape variety, fourteen wines from six wineries and six vintages (1999 thru 2004) were tasted.
L’Acadie Blanc began life as one of thousands of experimental cultivars developed at Ontario’s Vineland research station. However, the cultivar known only as V-53621 was deemed ill-suited to Ontario’s warm growing season and was scrubbed at Vineland. As good fortune would have it, a handful of test vines, previously sent to Nova Scotia, escaped the purge. At the time, with no farm wineries in existence in Nova Scotia, this could have been a virtual death sentence for any grape cultivar looking to become wine. However, the vine performed well at the agricultural research station in Kentville and in the vineyards of Dr. Norman Morse at Grand Pre. With the opening of Roger Dial’s Grand Pre Winery in the late 1970’s, V-53621 would at last become wine under the label L’Acadie Blanc, in honor of the French settlers who established the region more than three hundred and fifty years prior.
Since Dial’s early work with L’Acadie Blanc, the grape has become Nova Scotia’s most planted and well regarded cultivar. Despite L’Acadie Blanc’s success and recognition there has been a surprising lack of unbiased tastings done to determine the organoleptic similarities between the various L’Acadies produced in the large Nova Scotia appellation.
Appropriately enough, Roger Dial chaired the AppellationAmerica Discovery Program’s tasting of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc – a long overdue critical examination of a grape near and dear to his and all Nova Scotia wine lovers’ hearts.
L’Acadie has long been regarded as Nova Scotia’s equivalent to Chardonnay – a grape with broad enough shoulders to handle, and a willingness to mold to, a number of winemaker techniques. It has widely been assumed the defining link between L’Acadie Blanc across the province is richness in texture and suitability to a number of style choices. After the Discovery tasting, this definition of L’Acadie Blanc could be altered. Observations drawn from the Appellation Discovery Tasting suggest this cultivar may actually have more similarities to Sauvignon Blanc than Chardonnay, and its defining characteristics may be best suited to minimalist winemaking techniques.
Not surprisingly, as Nova Scotia is quintessentially a marginal climate, vintage also plays an important role in the success of each wine. The best examples (showcasing a clear link in character) all come from years with late bloom and a slow but long ripening season -- with the cool vintages of 2004 and 2002 yielding the majority of wines honored with the “Appellation Signature” distinction. Technical data revealed that all of the 'Signature' wines were picked in mid-October (October 9th to October 24th), with remarkably consistent brix levels – most ranging from 17.5 to 18.5 with only two wines (2000 Domain de Grand Pre and 2001 Blomidon Estate) having grapes picked above the 20 brix level.
So what is the defining style and character of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc?
The most clear organoleptic links between the wines awarded “Appellation Signature” standing are grassy and citrus aromatics not dissimilar to Sauvignon Blanc, but with a mineral edge that is uniquely Nova Scotian. A floral link was also suggested by the Confirmation Panel, and a strong enough opinion was made to include their observations as part of the defining style of L’Acadie.
In terms of the structural profile of L’Acadie – once thought to be full figured – this tasting has shown wines produced from the grape to be lighter than prior expectations. Few panel members noted any wine as full bodied, with most being described as mid-weight. Acidity was predominantly noted as balanced, with a couple examples from the very cool 2004 vintage showcasing firm acids as would be expected. There was little clear evidence to suggest if malo-lactic fermentation is a positive or negative influence on varietal character as just half the wines undergoing M-L earned 'Appellation Signature' status. Two wines from particularly cool vintages (2002, 2004) received partial M-L and were also included in the 'Signature' selections.
A slight astringency on the finish was also a common link. Most wines were observed to have a favorable medium length of finish.
The “Appellation Signature” List
The following wines garnered the Appellation Signature distinction based on overall quality of wine while showcasing a common and defining link between other L’Acadie Blanc:
Other L’Acadie Blanc Oddities
A couple of wines were submitted to the tasting but did not comfortably sit alongside the rest of the wines due to style and age. They were reserved for later tasting.
1988 Grand Pre Wines – Home Vineyard
This wine was not included in the main tasting due to its age and the likelihood that it would be well over the hill and oxidized. It was reserved for later tasting, as an interesting footnote to the event. However, upon tasting it was clear that this wine despite its age would easily have slipped into the flight of younger wines –- and would certainly have earned "Appellation Signature" distinction.
A vibrant yellow appearance with youthful greenish hues offers no obvious indication of this wine’s age. Age is further concealed on the nose where lovely aromas of baked apple pie are complemented with pasty dough and vanilla bean notes. As observed in many of the younger wines, this older version of L’Acadie also displayed an herbaceous element of freshly cut hay. On the palate, the wine is richly textured and extracted (much more so than current examples) with typical L’Acadie citrus and apple flavors, still balanced with fresh acidity. Hints of butterscotch on the finish only subtly suggest age, but certainly not 17 years worth! The wine finishes long with lingering flavors and a slightly citrus pithy astringency – likely the result of its extended skin contact before pressing.
Even 17 years after its vintage, the wine still bears strong similarities to Chardonnay – being particularly Beaune-like in its structure and flavor profile.
1996 Solstice Ice – L’Acadie Blanc Icewine, Jost Vineyards
A wine that does much to dispel several myths, including the notion that L’Acadie is most suitable as a dry table wine, and the more common perception that Canadian Icewine has little aging potential and is best drunk within five years of the vintage.
Over 9 years in bottle, this wine has evolved into something quite unlike the normal expectations of icewine. Replacing the usual intense primary grapey aromas associated with icewine is a host of more pungent secondary and tertiary characteristics on the nose and palate. Treacle and crème caramel nose and flavors with pleasant Tokaji-like ranchio (baked/oxidized) character, and a refreshing zing of acidity made this wine as unciously enjoyable as any young icewine.
About the Vineyards
L’Acadie Blanc occupies a range of territory across the province. Of the 14 wines included in this tasting, there were eight notable vineyard sources, which in theory could be divided into three districts or would-be appellations:
1. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY - Direct Bay of Fundy influence
Grand Pre (Domaine de Grand Pre Estate) – mature vineyard with the oldest L’Acadie vines in the province. Minor slope with south-west exposure, clay loamy soils.
Canning (Habitant Vineyard) – vineyard with 20 year old L’Acadie vines. Gentle south facing slope abutting Minas Basin for microclimate moderation. Sandy loam soils.
Falmouth (Ste. Famille Vineyard) – well established vineyard located on the Avon Valley uplands. The vineyard sits upon a slight bluff giving minor slope with southern exposure. Clay soils mixed with small stones.
Gaspereau Valley (Domaine de Grand Pre & Gaspereau Vineyards) – young vineyards, southern exposure, 15% slope, highly organic loam soils.
2. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY - North Mountain
Lakeville (Warner Vineyard) – mature vineyard at base of Annapolis Valley’s North Mountain. Minor slope with southeasterly exposure, loamy to sandy loam soils. Moderation from Bay of Fundy breezes coming over mountain. Fruit contracted to Jost and Grand Pre.
North Kingston (Wuhr Vineyard) – well established vineyard mid-slope on North Mountain with 10% south facing slope. Fruit contracted to Grand Pre.
3. NORTHUMBERLAND SHORE
Malagash (Jost Estate Vineyard) – well established vineyard on shore of Northumberland Straight. Clay loam soils with slight north facing slope.
Antigonish (Kingsley Brown Vineyard) – young vineyard with southeasterly slope. Moderation from St. Georges Bay. Fruit contracted to Jost.
L’Acadie is also being grown successfully in the LaHave River region on the province’s South Shore. The relatively small current production is used as a minor blending component in a Seyval dominated wine. Therefore, no samples of south shore L’Acadie were available for the tasting. According to Philip Wambolt, of Petite Riviere Vineyards, L’Acadie does have a solid future in this region and his future planting program includes a larger focus on the variety.
Based on this tasting it is inconclusive as to which are the best overall sites for L’Acadie. Wines from each vineyard source performed inconsistently, with stronger lines of correlation to quality being tied to the particular vintages conditions.
In the hotter vintages of 1999 and 2001, where grape ripeness reached presumably desirable Brix levels of 20+, the wines underperformed, most likely due to lower harvest acidity levels. This observation was noted by HC Jost who in hot years (like 2001), sources his L’Acadie fruit from the Warner Vineyard which sits at the base of Annapolis Valley’s North Mountain and benefits from Bay of Fundy moderating breezes to slow and extend the ripening. Alternatively, in the cooler vintages (like 2002) he selects the fruit from his Malagash vineyard because of the more intense summertime temperatures on the Northumberland Shore.
On the afternoon of June 30th, at the 5 Fisherman Restaurant in downtown Halifax, winemakers, winegrowers, writers, sommeliers, and a handful of other industry notables gathered to take part in an Appellation Discovery Tasting of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc. In our search for the common and defining character of Nova Scotia’s signature white grape variety, fourteen wines from six wineries and six vintages (1999 thru 2004) were tasted.
L’Acadie Blanc began life as one of thousands of experimental cultivars developed at Ontario’s Vineland research station. However, the cultivar known only as V-53621 was deemed ill-suited to Ontario’s warm growing season and was scrubbed at Vineland. As good fortune would have it, a handful of test vines, previously sent to Nova Scotia, escaped the purge. At the time, with no farm wineries in existence in Nova Scotia, this could have been a virtual death sentence for any grape cultivar looking to become wine. However, the vine performed well at the agricultural research station in Kentville and in the vineyards of Dr. Norman Morse at Grand Pre. With the opening of Roger Dial’s Grand Pre Winery in the late 1970’s, V-53621 would at last become wine under the label L’Acadie Blanc, in honor of the French settlers who established the region more than three hundred and fifty years prior.
Since Dial’s early work with L’Acadie Blanc, the grape has become Nova Scotia’s most planted and well regarded cultivar. Despite L’Acadie Blanc’s success and recognition there has been a surprising lack of unbiased tastings done to determine the organoleptic similarities between the various L’Acadies produced in the large Nova Scotia appellation.
Appropriately enough, Roger Dial chaired the AppellationAmerica Discovery Program’s tasting of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc – a long overdue critical examination of a grape near and dear to his and all Nova Scotia wine lovers’ hearts.
L’Acadie has long been regarded as Nova Scotia’s equivalent to Chardonnay – a grape with broad enough shoulders to handle, and a willingness to mold to, a number of winemaker techniques. It has widely been assumed the defining link between L’Acadie Blanc across the province is richness in texture and suitability to a number of style choices. After the Discovery tasting, this definition of L’Acadie Blanc could be altered. Observations drawn from the Appellation Discovery Tasting suggest this cultivar may actually have more similarities to Sauvignon Blanc than Chardonnay, and its defining characteristics may be best suited to minimalist winemaking techniques.
Not surprisingly, as Nova Scotia is quintessentially a marginal climate, vintage also plays an important role in the success of each wine. The best examples (showcasing a clear link in character) all come from years with late bloom and a slow but long ripening season -- with the cool vintages of 2004 and 2002 yielding the majority of wines honored with the “Appellation Signature” distinction. Technical data revealed that all of the 'Signature' wines were picked in mid-October (October 9th to October 24th), with remarkably consistent brix levels – most ranging from 17.5 to 18.5 with only two wines (2000 Domain de Grand Pre and 2001 Blomidon Estate) having grapes picked above the 20 brix level.
So what is the defining style and character of Nova Scotia L’Acadie Blanc?
The most clear organoleptic links between the wines awarded “Appellation Signature” standing are grassy and citrus aromatics not dissimilar to Sauvignon Blanc, but with a mineral edge that is uniquely Nova Scotian. A floral link was also suggested by the Confirmation Panel, and a strong enough opinion was made to include their observations as part of the defining style of L’Acadie.
In terms of the structural profile of L’Acadie – once thought to be full figured – this tasting has shown wines produced from the grape to be lighter than prior expectations. Few panel members noted any wine as full bodied, with most being described as mid-weight. Acidity was predominantly noted as balanced, with a couple examples from the very cool 2004 vintage showcasing firm acids as would be expected. There was little clear evidence to suggest if malo-lactic fermentation is a positive or negative influence on varietal character as just half the wines undergoing M-L earned 'Appellation Signature' status. Two wines from particularly cool vintages (2002, 2004) received partial M-L and were also included in the 'Signature' selections.
A slight astringency on the finish was also a common link. Most wines were observed to have a favorable medium length of finish.
The “Appellation Signature” List
The following wines garnered the Appellation Signature distinction based on overall quality of wine while showcasing a common and defining link between other L’Acadie Blanc:
- 2000, Domaine de Grand Pre L’Acadie Blanc – Despite its age this wine showcased fresh L’Acadie character. Pale color with some yellow from age. Nose displayed canned vegetables, mint, citrus fruits, and mineral with some sweeter tropical fruit notes. A smoky, vanilla quality was noted by one panelist. The palate was mid-weight, with good glycerin levels and balanced acidity. The finish was slightly bitter with a medium length.
- 2001, Blomidon Estate L’Acadie Blanc – A split decision but eventual inclusion of this wine amongst the 'Signature' wines. Two panelists initially remarked on a rather shy nose. After collective discussion it was agreed that its L’Acadie character and similarity to other wines warranted its inclusion. Pale yellow with mint, citrus, and tree fruit, along with some jammy and waxy fruit character on the nose. Some panelists also noted a honeyed/dried fruit character emerging on the palate. The wine showed mid weight, with balanced to high acidity, and a medium to long dry to off-dry finish.
- 2002, Jost Vineyards L’Acadie Blanc – Pale yellow color. Nose showcased strong citrus, treefruit, and petrol (as indicated by one taster) with an indication of oak (13 months French Oak) and butterscotch (perhaps the result of partial M-L). The palate was mid-weight with balanced acidity and a slightly bitter, astringent finish.
- 2002, Blomidon Estate L’Acadie Blanc – Tasted blind, this wine
garnered the most positive praise with the notable exception of one panelist, who exclaimed “one of these is not like the others” in reaction to the wine’s overtly pronounced character. Based on its seemingly atypical nature, this taster marked this wine as flawed, but was not supported by the rest of panel, which judged the wine exceptional. The intensity of the wine made it clearly stand out, but there were definite links in character to the others, as was noted by one panelist who was the first to point out the similarities between this wine and #10 (later revealed as the 2004 Sainte Famille). To varying degrees these same characteristics would eventually be acknowledged as the common thread linking all the 'Appellation Signature' wines. This wine was pale yellow/straw in color, with an intensely aromatic nose suggesting grass, green vegetables, pine, dried herbs, citrus fruit and a very pronounced tropical fruit character with a slight earthy undertone. The palate was mid-weight with low to balanced acidity and a slightly bitter medium length finish. - 2003, Domaine de Grand Pre L’Acadie Blanc – Pale Yellow with green hues. The nose suggests fresh grass and light vegetal character with citrus fruits and mineral. An element of buttery/butterscotch character emerging on the palate, likely the result of the M-L fermentation the wine underwent. The palate is mid-weight, extracted, and finishes dry with a medium length of finish.
- 2004, Sainte Famille L’Acadie Blanc – Clear evidence links this wine to others with one panel member emphatically remarking that “this wine wants to be number 6” (2002 Blomidon Estate) – the parallels in styles of these two wines becoming more evident. This wine was very pale yellow in color, with an aromatic nose suggesting fresh aromas of citrus (grapefruit), grass, treefuit (peach) and floral characteristics. Some also noted this wine as being particularly steely. Light to medium bodied on the palate, slightly astringent with high acidity and a medium length of finish.
- 2004, Domaine de Grand Pre L’Acadie Blanc – “Exceptional” was the comment from one taster, and the rest of the panel concurred. From appearance to finish the merits of this wine secured its position amongst the 'Appellation Signature' selections. The wine has a pale yellow color, with aromatics suggesting grass, mineral, mint, and canned vegetables, with citrus, tree fruits and tropical undertones. The palate is mid-weight with high acidity, and a slightly astringent and medium length finish.
- 2004, Jost ‘Cotes St. George’ L’Acadie Blanc – Although fashioned in an off-dry style with more sweetly perfumed aromatics, this wine was “unquestionably L’Acadie in character” (if not typical in style). The appearance stayed true to form with a very pale yellow color. The nose, similar to the drier wines, showed grass, canned vegetables, and citrus with strong floral, and tropical fruit notes. The palate was off-dry, mid-weight with sugar and acidity balanced and a slightly astringent medium length finish.
Other L’Acadie Blanc Oddities
A couple of wines were submitted to the tasting but did not comfortably sit alongside the rest of the wines due to style and age. They were reserved for later tasting.
1988 Grand Pre Wines – Home Vineyard
This wine was not included in the main tasting due to its age and the likelihood that it would be well over the hill and oxidized. It was reserved for later tasting, as an interesting footnote to the event. However, upon tasting it was clear that this wine despite its age would easily have slipped into the flight of younger wines –- and would certainly have earned "Appellation Signature" distinction.
A vibrant yellow appearance with youthful greenish hues offers no obvious indication of this wine’s age. Age is further concealed on the nose where lovely aromas of baked apple pie are complemented with pasty dough and vanilla bean notes. As observed in many of the younger wines, this older version of L’Acadie also displayed an herbaceous element of freshly cut hay. On the palate, the wine is richly textured and extracted (much more so than current examples) with typical L’Acadie citrus and apple flavors, still balanced with fresh acidity. Hints of butterscotch on the finish only subtly suggest age, but certainly not 17 years worth! The wine finishes long with lingering flavors and a slightly citrus pithy astringency – likely the result of its extended skin contact before pressing.
Even 17 years after its vintage, the wine still bears strong similarities to Chardonnay – being particularly Beaune-like in its structure and flavor profile.
1996 Solstice Ice – L’Acadie Blanc Icewine, Jost VineyardsA wine that does much to dispel several myths, including the notion that L’Acadie is most suitable as a dry table wine, and the more common perception that Canadian Icewine has little aging potential and is best drunk within five years of the vintage.
Over 9 years in bottle, this wine has evolved into something quite unlike the normal expectations of icewine. Replacing the usual intense primary grapey aromas associated with icewine is a host of more pungent secondary and tertiary characteristics on the nose and palate. Treacle and crème caramel nose and flavors with pleasant Tokaji-like ranchio (baked/oxidized) character, and a refreshing zing of acidity made this wine as unciously enjoyable as any young icewine.
About the Vineyards
L’Acadie Blanc occupies a range of territory across the province. Of the 14 wines included in this tasting, there were eight notable vineyard sources, which in theory could be divided into three districts or would-be appellations:
1. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY - Direct Bay of Fundy influence
Grand Pre (Domaine de Grand Pre Estate) – mature vineyard with the oldest L’Acadie vines in the province. Minor slope with south-west exposure, clay loamy soils. Canning (Habitant Vineyard) – vineyard with 20 year old L’Acadie vines. Gentle south facing slope abutting Minas Basin for microclimate moderation. Sandy loam soils.
Falmouth (Ste. Famille Vineyard) – well established vineyard located on the Avon Valley uplands. The vineyard sits upon a slight bluff giving minor slope with southern exposure. Clay soils mixed with small stones.
Gaspereau Valley (Domaine de Grand Pre & Gaspereau Vineyards) – young vineyards, southern exposure, 15% slope, highly organic loam soils.2. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY - North Mountain
Lakeville (Warner Vineyard) – mature vineyard at base of Annapolis Valley’s North Mountain. Minor slope with southeasterly exposure, loamy to sandy loam soils. Moderation from Bay of Fundy breezes coming over mountain. Fruit contracted to Jost and Grand Pre.
North Kingston (Wuhr Vineyard) – well established vineyard mid-slope on North Mountain with 10% south facing slope. Fruit contracted to Grand Pre.
3. NORTHUMBERLAND SHORE
Malagash (Jost Estate Vineyard) – well established vineyard on shore of Northumberland Straight. Clay loam soils with slight north facing slope.
Antigonish (Kingsley Brown Vineyard) – young vineyard with southeasterly slope. Moderation from St. Georges Bay. Fruit contracted to Jost.
L’Acadie is also being grown successfully in the LaHave River region on the province’s South Shore. The relatively small current production is used as a minor blending component in a Seyval dominated wine. Therefore, no samples of south shore L’Acadie were available for the tasting. According to Philip Wambolt, of Petite Riviere Vineyards, L’Acadie does have a solid future in this region and his future planting program includes a larger focus on the variety.
Based on this tasting it is inconclusive as to which are the best overall sites for L’Acadie. Wines from each vineyard source performed inconsistently, with stronger lines of correlation to quality being tied to the particular vintages conditions.
In the hotter vintages of 1999 and 2001, where grape ripeness reached presumably desirable Brix levels of 20+, the wines underperformed, most likely due to lower harvest acidity levels. This observation was noted by HC Jost who in hot years (like 2001), sources his L’Acadie fruit from the Warner Vineyard which sits at the base of Annapolis Valley’s North Mountain and benefits from Bay of Fundy moderating breezes to slow and extend the ripening. Alternatively, in the cooler vintages (like 2002) he selects the fruit from his Malagash vineyard because of the more intense summertime temperatures on the Northumberland Shore.
