Chiarito Vineyard

This is one of John Chiarito’s two southern Italian grape varieties showcased as a modern California red (the other is Negro Amaro). Nero D’Avola is enjoying its first international renown these days, after enduring centuries as either a rustic red consumed by southern paisani or as a secret color-enhancer for Chianti and other, better-known reds from further north. Today the grape gets its name on the bottles of dozens of artisanal Sicilian producers who use modern methods and some not-so-secret ingredients of their own, such as Merlot and Syrah, to add body and complexity. Chiarito’s doing his part by emulating that success right here in America. (Labels we can read! No import duties!)

As in the new-wave Italian versions, Chiarito’s Nero gives off plenty of oak aromas along with both black and red plums. But where the Italians reach for chunky tannins and big body – both fairly standard in good California reds – Chiarito wins by going for smooth and suave, with juicy acids melding the fruit and oak into a lipsmacking aftertaste. I personally would give this another couple of years of bottle age, but if you’re cooking up anything Italian soon this is a good bet to take the whole meal to another level.

Reviewed September 20, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.