Chiarito Vineyard

John Chiarito is staking his claim to fame on two Italian varieties: Negro Amaro and Nero D’Avola. He says his 2003 Negro Amaro is the first official U.S. release of varietal Negro. Whatever that means, the wine’s a winner. The bitter quality included in the grape’s name (“amaro”) is really a clue to its inherent balance, which includes good acid to offset the high sugars typical of red wine from the grape’s home in the southern boot of Italy. The flavor translation for the “amaro” is toward fennel, anise, or licorice – take your pick – and hazelnut or almond. Mix ‘em with ripe cherries and you’ve’ got a wine made for the tomatoes, capers and herbs of southern Italian cuisine.

I found the wine to offer plentiful red cherry and plum aromas and noticeable oak from 16 months in barrel. These are evident in the flavors as well, which are well concentrated. In your mouth the wine is juicy, balanced and lively, with the fruit buoyant rather than sappy, the acid integrated rather than gripping. Best of all, it finishes like a warm Italian evening – pleasant, happy, relaxed.

Reviewed September 20, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.