Collier Falls Vineyards

When I first tasted Collier Falls wines a few years ago, I remember thinking that I was going to like them (Cabernet and Zinfandel) better when they got another year or two in the bottle. Apparently Barry Collier has had a similar thought, because his 2001 “Private Reserve” wines, out now, are impressive. The vineyards are about as far up in Dry Creek Valley as you can get – the Colliers can look down on Sonoma Lake, an earth-dam reservoir that lies well above most everything else in the appellation. The slopes are steep and the soils are rocky, sun-baked, and well-drained. Only passionate people would farm up there, and the Colliers do it by hand, in person.

The 2001 Reserve Zin smells deceptively like laid-back, partially raisined Zinfandel, but it enters your mouth as a brawny, ripe mountain Zin with plenty on its mind. I particularly liked how the wine’s smoky, earthy warmth never loses touch with its vibrant acidity or mellow blackberry and black cherry flavors. I don’t often advocate drinking wine on its own, but the Italians have a concept that applies: vino da meditazione, or “wine for meditating upon.” Either that, or you could grill up some ribs.

Reviewed September 19, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.