Cline Cellars

This is one of those wines that compels us to consider the Sonoma Coast appellation’s crazy architecture. As long as it has existed, people have said the “true” appellation was in the far northwest, right out at the water’s edge, near Ft. Ross and the town of Seaview. Last week I heard that a group of inland vintners near Occidental and Freestone are talking about a sub-appellation because they think they occupy “the true Sonoma Coast.” But after tasting this wine, and those of Keller Estate, I have to say there’s plenty of truth way down in the southeastern corner of the appellation.

This wine comes from Cline’s vineyards just over the western hills behind their Highway 121 tasting room in southern Sonoma Valley. It’s a Sonoma Coast Syrah in all respects, with its central layers of concentrated black and blue fruits sandwiched between summer sweetness and spice up high and warm earth underneath. It’s a great ride in your mouth, with Syrah’s brambly spice and juiciness and some nifty citrus structure going on across the palate. Then it all finishes clean and confident and appetizing – if Syrah’s not a food wine, it’s not worth your time. Speaking of that, anyone making cassoulet tonight?

Reviewed September 19, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.