Bonterra Vineyards

Bonterra is the one-time Fetzer brand that got spun off to explore the winemaking possibilities inherent in organic viticulture back in the 1990s. Turns out those possibilities were abundant and tasty, and particularly persuasive in white wines that don’t generally get overbuilt in the winery likes reds do today. General manager and winemaker Bob Blue has a special feel for white Rhône varieties, and I can remember the first time I tasted his Roussanne: the last day of November, when all the other vineyards in Sanel Valley were brown and dead but Blue’s were still full of golden leaves, flowering lavender, and happy birds and bees.

The 2005 Bonterra Viognier is out, and it may remind you – if you got into Viognier more than five years ago – why people imported the grape from France in the first place. The aromas feature deep mango, guava and nectarine with a mellow brush of toasted oak. In your mouth the wine is bright, outgoing and sweet, with a nubbly texture on a medium body and a fruity finish that's wonderfully clear and clean. If you want to introduce someone to Viognier, this is a good place to start. If you already like it, ‘nough said.

Reviewed September 12, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.