Ceago Vinegarden

You can smell the fresh apples and pears from across the table, telling you the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation so its fruit flavors are fresh and relatively untrammeled by science. Just 15% of the wine spent some months in barrels, to add a few dark notes to the bright sweetness and crisp acid. All the fruit was organically grown, and three different French clones of Chardonnay went into the blend for good dimensionality and layers of flavor. The body is full and flowing, the texture coats your mouth and the finish lets the oak influence warm up and lift the aftertaste.

In Europe, Chardonnay like this is everyday wine, a ready companion for fish, seafood, fresh vegetables from the market, or just a sunny afternoon. Too often in California, top-quality Chardonnay is made as a Meaningful Experience – with all kinds of cellar work and elevated alcohol to tell you how serious it is. If you’ve grown tired of those wines – or never had much use for them in the first place – this is a good way to discover Chardonnay that’s light on its feet, good to your mouth, and easy on the alcohol. Just make sure you have enough of it, because it can be hard to switch to another Chard right after this one.

Reviewed August 16, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.