Murphy-Goode Estate Winery

The second generation has clearly taken over at this landmark Alexander Valley winery, and it’s clearly reflected in the wines. They’re bigger, bolder, blacker and more – let’s say “assertively masculine” – across the board. Perhaps that’s what happens when three men turn their winery over to five sons: the young dudes have gotta outdo dad.

Because I learned to appreciate Alexander Valley originally via Murphy-Goode wines, I keep tasting them and looking for ones I would drink. I have mostly passed on the Zins recently (so over the top you can’t see the top) so I never thought I would find some personal pleasures among the Cabernets – much less a baby-vine Cab.

When I first nosed this wine, from four-year old vines, I didn’t know what to think: it smelled like mushrooms, scrambled eggs, and blackberry pancakes all at once. But after six hours, 24 hours, and 72 hours, it smelled exactly the same – the sign of a wine that’s true to something intrinsic, not tarted up. In your mouth, it’s full of sweet black fruit laced with baking spice delivered in a multi-layered texture that’s warm without alcoholic heat and that expands all the way through to the finish. Worth seeking out for both pleasure and originality.

Reviewed June 22, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.