McDowell Valley Vineyards

McDowell Valley in northern California is one of those wine-growing valleys you discover by accident, perhaps on your way over to Lake County from U.S. 101 in Mendocino County. You get an immediate sense of place from the geology (nestled in the Mayacama Mountains), the climate (warm and warmer), and the vigor of the Rhône variety grapevines all around you. There’s evidence that Syrah has been grown in the valley on a continuous basis longer than anywhere in California, and once there you can well imagine why. The anchor winery is, of course McDowell Valley Vineyards.

The winery was in the news a few years ago during the run of the movie about the race horse, Seabiscuit, who spent his final years in the area. Lately the winery’s in the news because of the medals for its 2003 Mendocino County Syrah ($25). From a very warm vintage, this wine features intense dark cherry and blueberry aromas and flavors with oak-induced vanilla that pumps up the volume on the fruit. The wine also has plenty of stuffing from extended maceration and oak aging.

Having judged enough big wine competitions to know which wines stand out after days of tasting, it’s clear to me that the wine is winning medals left and right because it’s so packed with great ingredients -- but it is not yet greater than the sum of its parts. If you can hold it for a couple of years, you’re in for a real treat. Decanting an hour or two for current drinking will also yield good results.

Reviewed June 15, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.