Wilson Winery

I will never forget the first time I drove Skaggs Springs Road from Dry Creek Valley to the ocean. It’s a magically wild place, with plunging declivities and dense oak copses and sun-drenched knolls rising out of the terrain like islands. Some fascinating vineyards have been laid out on those clear patches at 1600+ feet of elevation. Dorothy’s Vineyard is one. Planted 13 years ago, the vines hit their stride a few years ago and can now deal with anything Mother Nature throws at them (such as the 2004 vintage). A couple of Syrah winemakers who I invited along to taste also picked this wine out of the flights, and the more I found out about it, the more I knew I had to recommend it.

The aromas emphasize ripe, concentrated black fruit, dark milk chocolate, nutmeggy baking spice, and some high citrus tones. In the mouth, it’s quickly recognizable as a Dry Creek Valley appellation wine: medium body and power with lots of mouth-friendly flavor, nice balance, fine tannins in suitable abundance but without undue buzz, and good acidity. The finish goes on a long time, as if it’s having as much fun as your palate is. Even at nearly 16% alcohol, this is not a masculine bruiser like some mountain Syrahs: more like a strong, spirited female with a zest for life and impressive staying power – as was Dorothy Wilson, who passed away a year after this wine went into the barrels. 100% Syrah, and pretty darn good.

Reviewed June 11, 2008 by Thom Elkjer.