Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves

Something in my palate loves old vines, and it’s not always the so-called “intensity” that wineries often claim that old vines put into wine. I’ve tasted plenty of old vine wines that were more about conveying the essence of flavors rather than intensity of flavors.

Bella has a 14-acre property, Big River Ranch, with vines more than a century old, and some of that essential-type fruit is in this wine. (The other Zin “patch” in this wine comes from the Todd Brothers; no slouches either.) 2005 offered the kind of mellow pre-harvest hang time that old vines need to fully show their stuff. Like a lot of old folks, old vine grapes take a bit more time to get where they’re going. This time, they got there.

Lovely, harmonious red and black fruits in the aromas, laced with blueberries and some minty oak accents. You get all these as flavors, in a package with good size, weight and texture, again all in harmony. The fruit keeps opening in waves across the palate, flowing back and forth from red to black with some blue sheen and baking spice to highlight the abundant sweetness. There’s good expansion into the finish and a nice reprise of the aromas as the wine volatilizes. If you want to convert someone who thinks they don’t like Zin, give them this. It’s as much an essential wine experience as a Zin experience.

Reviewed May 29, 2008 by Thom Elkjer.