McFadden Vineyard

Potter Valley is a bowl-shaped, scenic valley below Lake Pillsbury in eastern Mendocino County. Much like Anderson Valley, it has found a good balance between vineyards and the rest of country life, including ranching, agriculture, and village life. I was on a competition panel that gave this wine a silver medal, and I made a note to find it afterward. The McFaddens have been growing for 37 years; they certified the vineyard organic; and they opened their winery in 2003. The wine is 100 percent Pinot Gris, and they made it in stainless steel to preserve the fruit in a relatively pure state.

The wine is a bit shy aromatically, but if you pay attention you’ll find a nice nuttiness in the aromas that lets you know the fruit got ripe. The instant you put it in your mouth you know it was fermented to dryness – the luscious sweetness is in the flavors, not residual sugar. The acidity takes a gentle grip on your palate a moment later, then juices up the chamber so the finish is once again liquid, fruity and refreshing. There’s also a fine mineral component, especially in the aftertaste, that reminded me of Alsatian Pinot Gris – the world’s gold standard for the grape.

Reviewed October 5, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.