Handley Cellars

Potter Valley’s McFadden Ranch, which is certified organic, contributed nearly two-thirds of the fruit for this 100 percent Riesling. Cole Ranch, in a tiny pocket valley hanging well above Ukiah Valley, contributed the rest. The two vineyards were harvested within a week of each other, in the second half of October, so there was plenty of time for the flavors to develop. The wine saw no oak, because it didn’t need any. Riesling is considered one of the greatest wine grapes on this planet not just because it tastes so good, but also because it can make complete wines with its own juice, skins, seeds and stems.

In this case, the aromas are exotic and intoxicating: apricots, young figs, orange marmalade, shaved ginger and cinnamon. All these glide into your mouth on a sleek, sinuous package that is both bright with acidity and dark with still more mysterious spices. The texture and palate play are evocative of German Riesling, in that they are masculine and feminine at the same time – assertive and yet seductively soft. Unlike German Riesling, however, this one’s 14.2 percent alcohol, so be careful not to let your taste buds lure you into too-rapid consumption.

Reviewed October 4, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.