Alexander Valley Vineyards

It can be hard to get a handle on Alexander Valley, and not just because so much of its fruit goes to wines in other appellations (as the 15 percent of non-appellation fruit allowed by labeling laws). The valley itself is a rumpled hodgepodge of soils cut by Russian River, which once exited southeast toward Napa Valley until geological movements forced it to find its way west to the Pacific. Many of the better wines of the appellation combine two or more terroirs into one wine, for greater complexity. This Syrah follows that path, combining grapes from two parts of the estate vineyard.

The opening aromas of black cherry and blueberry include layers of wet clay, lively cola and a hint of char. All the aromas continue as flavors, with the addition of some hedonistic chocolate. Only 25 percent of the wine saw new oak, so the tannins are balanced now yet abundant enough to grip the whole palate evenly; the acidity keeps the wine humming through to the finish. For my palate, this wine is not yet greater than the sum of its parts. A year or two in the cellar should take care of that, because the components are of high quality and well suited to each other - particularly the juicy acidity and the ripe cherries and berries.

Reviewed August 19, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.