Pedroncelli Winery

The first time I saw the free-standing “mother” vines that produced the plant material behind this wine, it was at sunrise in early fall. Their leaves were red with virus, their ancient trunks were gnarled beyond description - they were just gorgeous. The Pedroncelli’s began years ago to take wood from these century-old vines and replant the hillside above them, around their winery in Dry Creek Valley. So now generations of head-pruned children and grandchildren can gaze down on grandma during the growing season and learn how to produce superior Zinfandel.

This 2004 from those vines offers aromas of dark cherries spiced with nutmeg and coconut and a bit of clay and toast from American oak. The wine is gently robust in the mouth, with ripe fruit, polished tannins, balancing acid, and excellent integration of the oak and fruit. The wood actually enhances the fruit in this case, which is something I don’t see (or say) that often. The finish goes on and on, long enough to imagine how proud grandma must be.

Reviewed August 9, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.