Golden Vineyards

Coro Mendocino is a wine that any winery bonded in Mendocino County is eligible to make. They just have to follow the rules. First, Zinfandel must comprise between 40% and 70% of the blend, and no other grape can account for a great share than Zin. Second, most of the rest of the wine must come from a list of so-called “heritage” grapes with a long history in Mendocino (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Sangiovese, Grenache, Dolcetto, Charbono, Barbera, Primitivo); there’s also a “free play” allotment of up to 10% that can come from any grape currently grown in the county (such as Pinot Noir and Pinotage). Finally, the wine must be aged in barrel at least a year, aged in bottle at least a year, and be in balance as defined by alcohol, pH, and total acidity.

Exactly half Zinfandel, a quarter Syrah, and a quarter Petite Sirah: surely a recipe Mendocino’s European immigrants would have recognized 100 years ago. This is what the whole Coro program is about after all – expressing Mendocino’s heritage. Golden’s own vineyards are certified biodynamic, which means pure viticulture enhanced by attention to natural cycles. The Petite Sirah and Syrah contribute plenty of tooth-coating tannins to the wine. They’re noticeable on entry, but the palate spread is so good that there’s no lingering astringency or hotness in any part of your mouth. Nice balance of fruit flavors, with the blueberry in the syrah winning out by a nose over the blackberry pie flavors of the Zin and Pets. A pasta Pomodoro Coro.

Reviewed August 7, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.