
Three Families Winery
2005 Chardonnay(Mendocino County)
By now you’ve probably heard that some wineries are swinging back toward Chardonnay that does not get fermented or aged in oak barrels, and that does not get put through malolactic fermentation (which changes crisp natural malic acids into softer lactic acids). It’s getting easier to find wines in this style, but not necessarily more rewarding. Oak aging and malolactic (“ML”) conveniently bury all kinds of winegrowing and winemaking sins in a mass of loud flavors, so winemakers who eschew them are working without a net. Not all of them make it across to the other trapeze.
This wine gets there with surprising verve. The aromas are deceptive, because they are naked: pears, apples and honey don’t exude strong scents in nature, and they shouldn’t in wine. I was reflecting on this when I took my first sip, and was joyfully surprised when the wine exploded with citrus and sparkling fruit flavors. Turns out the wine is not old-fashioned at all, as it keeps its edge but finishes very sweet so that you want another sip. Best of all, you can afford to sip as much as you want because it’s only $12.
Reviewed March 15, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.
Other reviewed wines from Three Families Winery
The Wine
Winery: Three Families Winery |
The Reviewer
Thom Elkjer
Thom Elkjer has been reviewing wines professionally for more than ten years. He has contributed to Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, served as Wine Editor for Wine Country Living and is Wine Editor for WineCountry.Com. He also writes for newspapers and magazines in the U.S. and Europe and judges at major international wine competitions. |













Thom Elkjer