Bonterra Vineyards

Bonterra had little trouble establishing itself as one of Mendocino’s leading warm-climate wineries (there’s not that much competition) as well as America’s flagship winery for organic viticulture (ditto). The question has always been, can the label keep growing without turning its back on its green, regional green roots? The answer is encouraging so far. Take this Syrah, which gets only a few percent of its fruit from Bonterra’s biodynamically farmed home vineyard, McNab Ranch. The outside sources include two other top-flight biodynamic vineyards, and 97% of the fruit comes from Mendocino County (there’s a dollop of Lake County Viognier).

Not only that, but I believe this is one of the best $15 Syrahs in California. The aromas are classic: what Syrah legend Gary Eberle calls “blueberries in blood.” The wine announces its earthy, brambly bona fides on entry, then quickly glides into the posh side of New World Syrah with its big body, plush texture, and long cool finish. In other words, a polished Syrah that still keeps the grape's natural robustness on the table all through the tasting experience. The warmth and expansion in the finish suggest that you can age this a couple more years, but why wait?

Reviewed March 14, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.