Wilson Winery

Some winemakers in Dry Creek Valley say that the Cabernet Sauvignon is “just as good as the Zinfandel, if not better,” but I think they say that just to get wine writers to quote them. (Woops, I fell for it.) Seriously, the Cab is pretty good at a lot of Dry Creek wineries, and worth exploring for its combination of character and value. If you can’t afford Napa Valley prices, Dry Creek Valley has some wines it would like to show you. This is one of them, grown in a mature, high-elevation (1500 feet) vineyard on a southwestern facing slope. Sydney Vineyard generally produces one of Wilson’s better bottlings in most vintages, and it certainly shone in the heat of 2003.

There’s just a splash of Merlot in this Cab, highlighting the insistent aromas of red plums and cherries. The wine is full, rich and sweet on entry and plush yet firm as it drapes itself over your palate. The strong structure becomes evident mostly past the mid-palate, but soon enough the wine is returning to its aromatic roots and echoing its succulent entry. I would decant for at least a couple of hours for current drinking or let this stallion run for 7-10 more years. Costs about half what comparable Napa Cab would set you back.

Reviewed March 12, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.