Saxon Brown Wines

Saxon Brown Winery is named after the heroine in Jack London’s novel, “Valley of the Moon.” The winery specializes in field-blended Zinfandel from the vineyard passed down through owner/winemaker Jeff Gaffner’s family for several generations. Casa Santinamaria vineyard was named after Gaffner’s mother-in-law and grandmother-in-law, and the youngest block is over 75 years old.

Gaffner’s choice of producing field-blended wines pays homage to the way his Italian in-laws made wine back-in-the-day. Casa Santinamaria Vineyard is host to eleven different varietals, including several whites. Gaffner admittedly still can’t identify several varietals.

“Those old Italian farts knew a hell of a lot more than they were telling us,” quips Gaffner, who explains the importance of co-pigmentation in the vineyard. “They never really got credit for what they had learned through experience. It’s like cooking with more than one spice. It’s a broad array, and when they all go in together, it makes for a wonderful flavor component.”

This wine has a classic zinfandel nose, with dark fruit and earthy components. Great balance here, with layers of cranberry, red raspberry and spice, all framed by zingy acidity. The finish shows black fruit and chalky tannins. The acidity brought to this dance by the field-blended varietals suggests that this wine could continue to improve with age. The overall character of this Zinfandel reminds one of Italian immigrants farming the Sonoma Valley decades ago. Gaffner has captured the essence of the Casa Santinamaria Vineyard in this bottling.

Reviewed February 12, 2007 by Bradley Gray.