AA: Chris, you have been directly involved in the Virginia wine industry for more than two decades in a number of capacities. You have witnessed and contributed to the resurgence of one the nation’s most historically important wine producing states. How far along is the Virginia wine industry in terms of reestablishing itself as one of America’s elite wine producing states?

CP:Prohibition started in 1920 and ended in 1933. For Virginia wineries, it was 1971 with the Farm Wineries Act which allowed a winery to sell it’s product at the winery. Wineries began opening in 1975, now there are 80+ wineries and still climbing. Moving from infancy through adolescent in the past few decades, Virginia now leads the East Coast in quality with a bright future. Virginia has had a best of show in San Diego, a best wine from the Atlanta Wine Summit, and, on a ratio of national production, a higher percentage of national gold medals than nearly any state.


AA: Do you feel producers in Virginia have received the credit they deserve from the national wine media?

CP:I think we are now a bit undernourished by the National wine media. However, in the past there was inconsistency in wine quality, or few consistent stars. Too many small producers only regionally distributed, and too many producers were not dedicated to making wines up to their potential best. Therefore, it’s a difficult argument to make that we've been neglected in the past. But the same has been true with most emerging wine regions. However, that is changing fast in Virginia with better distribution and consistent quality from dozens of producers.


AA: With the increase in quality of Virginia wines, is there any reason for the continued lack of attention?

CP: Virginia has a difficult time duplicating west coast quality in large production, low priced and nationally distributed wines. However, in the $15-$25 category, the competition and value are there and Virginia deserves far better media coverage. When I read about an imported wine with only a hundred cases produced, and an average score in a national wine magazine, I ask why wines from the oldest producing state are not rated in the national media, even when we have higher production, better distribution, and sometimes a higher score. It gets under my skin.


AA: Across America, particularly in California, Oregon and Washington, there has been an increased awareness in the media and by consumers of the relationship between ‘terroir’ and the resulting wines. Perhaps some of the strongest evidence of this trend is the proliferation of officially recognized American Viticultural Areas (AVA), both in the TTB (Tax & Trade Bureau) register, as well as on wine labels and marketing campaigns. Virginia currently has 6 official AVAs that, with the exception of Monticello, are rarely used for promotion. In your opinion, is it time for Virginia to explore further AVA delineation?

CP: Yes, it's time, and we are working on it slowly. AVA designation helps market wines outside the immediate region, and AVA identity is what is needed to help ‘break-out’ for those who want new markets. Virginia is conservative and many wineries are happy with the local market. A small winery has no traveling, outside reps, or distributors, and they're not selling wine a dollar or two over cost. A family and few employees can live well on 5,000 cases per year sold at the winery.


AA: Your winery and vineyards do not fall within the boundaries of any of the current AVAs. You are not alone in this exclusion as many other highly respected wineries are located in your vicinity. Is there interest in creating a new appellation in the Northern Piedmont region of Virginia where more than a third of the state's vineyards are located?

CP: We would like an AVA in the northern Piedmont, most likely three of them.


AA: Would the boundaries of any of the prospective appellations extend beyond the Virginia border to encompass vineyards in Maryland? Alternatively, could there be other cross border AVAs?


CP: Only a great deal more research would determine if it should extend in to Maryland. My general reaction is that it would not, given the easterly direction the northern Piedmont tends to follow…meaning that further north is also further east and growing conditions change; witness, there are no vineyards near the Potomac River in Maryland. A more likely scenario of a multi-state AVA would be the southern part of the state along the George Washington Parkway into North Carolina. Yet, that's still very unlikely.


AA: How does the ‘terroir’ in the Northern Piedmont region differ from other growing areas in Virginia?

CP: Soil wise, the Northern Piedmont region has 3 basic substrates and scores of soil types. Decomposed granite at higher elevations, then various schists, then Epodite Chloride at lower hills. Often elevation dictates wine styles, with later and cooler harvests at more northern and higher vineyard regions; and, in the center of the state, bud-breaking and ripening 10-20 days earlier, often picking in warmer days. An eastern slope with north/south row orientation is best for early sunlight interception, burning off the dew to reduce disease pressure, as well as protection from mid-day sunburn. This also results in riper fruit having higher sugars and lower malic acid content.


AA: Virginia’s heat and humidity have been the nemesis of Virginia viticulture since the earliest colonists. These climatic challenges have forced Virginia to be on the leading edge of research into cultivar and clonal selection. Has this research influenced the varietal or clonal choices you have made in your vineyard?

CP: Yes, and it’s very important. Varietal, clonal and rootstock choices are on our forefront for wine quality and vine health. Cold hardiness plays a major factor, as well. Our vineyard was an eight year experiment with nine varieties, different rootstocks and trellis designs. This was done from 1976 to 1984. I planted what did best -Chardonnay. Now I am planting 7 new Chardonnay clones this year, all on 3309 rootstock. I have several clones now, and am still working it. For the winery, we source grapes from several area vineyards. North facing, higher elevation for Riesling, for example, and southern facing vineyards for Bordeaux reds, all being soil specific.


AA: In vineyard development, there is often a compromise made between varietal selection based purely on ecological suitability and the consumer recognition and marketability of the variety. Are there any varietals ideally suited to Virginia’s growing conditions that you would like to explore but are hesitant to because they lack marketability?

CP: We are exploring all the time. As much as ten years ago, twelve Virginia producers were producing the best Viognier nationally, and we are still maintaining that lead. Markets are made by exploring and leading the industry. We also are playing with European classics like Tinto Cao, Touriga National, Graciano, Verdelho, and Rkatsiteli, Tempranillo and the New French-American hybrids like Traminette...and, of course, our native Norton grape is doing well. One of the benefits of such a strong local market is that we know our customers and can sell the unusual. If they buy it, Great! Exploration is always important and necessary. Also important is to find grapes that grow well in this environment and have broad user recognition and appeal. With that in hand as the backbone of our business, we can then afford to further explore other varietals.


AA: The state’s humid climate has also spawned a lot of research into trellising choices and canopy management. What type of system have you chosen to match your specific requirements?

CP: My 20 year old Chardonnay vineyard is VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioned). Virginia has Scott-Henry, GDC (Geneva Double Curtain), Smart-Dyson, and various others to help balance vigor. With inconsistent summer weather, VSP remains the most widely used. The divided canopy, or French Lyre system, works well if managed properly with higher yields, but often at the expense of terroir (leaving its signature on the wine). The state average yields are around 2 1/2 tons per acre, with a few successful growers averaging over 5 tons. Leaf pulling is paramount for quality (except DGC). North-south rows and hedging reduce disease pressure and minimize shading in the fruit zone. With soil and vine nutrition, we have our own issues.


AA: In wine regions with extreme conditions, unique wine styles often evolve. For example, Champagne and the Mosel, with cold climates, short growing seasons and low ripeness levels are famous for producing exceptional sparkling wines and off-dry/sweet styles, respectively. The heat and humidity of Maderia and some Mediterranean regions has lead to a Ranchio (baked/oxidized) style of wine. Do you see any distinctive wine styles emerging out of Virginia's unique conditions that may eventually become signatures of the region? Perhaps "Sparkling Viognier", "Vidal Sherry", or some late harvest dessert wines?

CP: Funny you should mention Vidal Sherry. I made one for our winery and one for Rappahannock Cellars. Both are non-fortified, but naturally 16-18% alcohol, and being very well accepted. Late Harvest Vidals are very popular here, but mostly sold at the winery or in the immediate market. They are not affected by botrytis, but are consistent and profitable additions to a winery's portfolio. Cabernet Francs are very successfully grown and made in a style that reflects our soils and climate; different from the Cabernet Francs of the Loire and California. However, because of international winemaking styles, many Virginia wines (like Viognier) are more mainstream and are often difficult to regionalize.


AA: Has your experience as a grower prior to starting your own winery given you an advantage in managing the relationship between vineyard and winery? If so, did this help with the difficult 2003 vintage?

CP: Yes, as a grower in Virginia, guessing on the long-term weather is so important. Canopy management decisions to get the vineyard to even ripening, with the ripest fruit without sunburning is challenging. As a winery owner, it’s much easier to drop fruit and spend the money in the vineyard to harvest the best possible crop. The problems in 2003 were a very wet and cold growing season. Aggressive leaf pulling, cluster and cane thinning, higher leaf to cluster ratio, and heavy spraying helped. A complete opposite of 2002, with 47 days over 90 degrees and ten weeks of no rain. Vine respiration and nutritional needs also vary greatly and are harder to manage. As a winemaker I have learned to watch pH very carefully in certain seasons from different soil types. It can really get away from you.


AA: What are your expectations for the wine you are producing from this last vintage which was plagued with so many problems?

CP: We have higher acid wines from 2003, but I am surprisingly happy with our reds, and the whites are pretty good - just a bit racy. Not a vintage to build inventory, but, at the six wineries I work with, we have no dogs. I worked with the least ripe grapes I’ve seen to make a Riesling from 16 brix, and 3.0 pH juice, but it has turned into a good wine. The tricks are out there, and I am pleased with the wines from other serious wineries in that difficult vintage. Still, I'm looking forward to a warmer, sunnier summer in 2004!


AA: If measured solely on the quality of the wines themselves, the Virginia wine industry is without question successful and viable. But expanding the markets available to Virginia wines may be a key to gaining national recognition for these fine wines and the growth of the industry. July 2003 saw new direct-shipping laws open up more states for direct shipping from Virginia wineries to out-of-state consumers. There has been some confusion about the effectiveness of this new legislation. Do you think the changes are sufficient to be optimistic about the growth of the Virginia wine industry and broader recognition of Virginia wines?

CP:Like high-tech stocks in the late 1990’s, many people have too much optimism with respect to the new shipping law. It will always be a very small part of the business. Even most of the wineries which can now ship to reciprocal states are not truly marketed there; just made available. Liberalized shipping laws are a tool to convey wines to customers who may have previously visited Virginia, or have joined a wine club, or are serious wine geeks. I believe better national distribution of quality wines will help Virginia to be taken more seriously. On the other hand, if we can ship directly to wine shops and restaurants across state lines, then……