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Feature Article
The Wallula Vineyard is located near the Wallula Gap on the Columbia River.
Long Shadows Vintners
Casts a Long Shadow
Personal wine ventures can be risky. This one's not - it's simply brilliant.
by
Eleanor & Ray Heald
November 7, 2007
Eleanor & Ray Heald (ERH): Who and what gave you hope that your Long Shadows idea could both attract some of the world's greatest winemakers and have wine consumer appeal?
Allen Shoup (AS): Through the 1980s and into the new millennia, I was frustrated about the wine business in Washington State, from growing grapes to management. I knew Robert Mondavi well and I believed that I could establish a Mondavi-type joint venture with winemakers in other wine regions of the world. In addition to Bob [Mondavi], I took advice from Agustin Huneeus Sr. [founder of wineries in California and Chile] and Jim Bancroft [owner of Bancroft Ranch in California].
ERH: What strategies did you use to convince renowned producers to join the Long Shadows venture?
AS: I invited several vintners, among them Agustin Huneeus Sr., Michel Rolland and Armin Diel from Germany, to the sunny slopes of the Columbia River Gorge. They were enthusiastic, so I began to formulate plans to establish individual brands that would reflect the status and acclaim of each vintner.
ERH: Why did you choose the name Long Shadows Vintners?
Allen Shoup is founder and managing director of Long Shadows Vintners.AS: I named the venture as a tribute to a select group of individuals, who shape the industry with their benchmark wines and wineries, in addition to casting long shadows over the industry.
ERH: Since the launch of Long Shadows five years ago, how has your vision unfolded?
AS: Marketing research indicates that it takes 17 years to bring a new business model to ultimate success. I'm too old and I knew I had to shorten that time. We're now in the fifth year of Long Shadows Vintners and for each vintage that has been released, the wines have received 90 or more points from one or more of the major international wine critics who rate wines by numbers. Long Shadows has also been named Winery of the Year for 2007 by Food & Wine magazine.
ERH: Is there an intention that the Long Shadows winemaker-partners would craft a wine that in some way reflects their native wine regions?
AS: No. Each winemaker is part of an evolving process to discover Columbia Valley AVA vineyards that are suitable to an envisioned wine style.
ERH: How did the Long Shadows winemaker-partners choose the vineyard sites from which they make their individual wines?
AS: They devoted hundreds of hours to sampling the many wines originating from the most important vineyards in the Columbia Valley AVA, and chose specific vineyards that fit the desired style and type of wines each hoped to make. Grapes from every sub-appellation of the Columbia Valley were selected to take advantage of the region’s individual microclimates and terroirs.
ERH: Do these winemakers produce wine from the same vineyard source each vintage?
AS: This, too, is an evolving process to discover vineyards that best suit the partner-winemaker's winemaking style.
ERH: What makes the Columbia Valley AVA so suitable to a wide array of wine grapes?
AS: All variables can be managed, from the inert sandy soils of a high desert to low rainfall, so irrigation regimes can be optimized. The Columbia Valley AVA and its sub-AVAs can have hot days but nights are cold, in the 60s or lower, and we do not have heat spikes. There's no phylloxera, so vines are own-rooted and we don't need to consider clone-rootstock compatibility.
ERH: How many wines are now under the Long Shadows Vintners signature?
AS: There are seven, including Poet’s Leap Riesling by Armin Diel of Schlossgut Diel, Nahe River Valley, Germany; Feather Cabernet Sauvignon, made by Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards, Napa Valley; Michel Rolland's Pedestal Merlot; the Chester-Kidder red blend made by me and winemaker Gilles Nicault; Pirouette, another red blend by Agustin Huneeus, proprietor of Quintessa, Napa Valley and Philippe Melka, Melka Wines, Napa Valley; Sequel Syrah by John Duval, formerly with Penfolds and now John Duval Wines; and Saggi by Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari of Tenute A. & G. Folonari in Tuscany.
ERH: Can you detail how this coterie functions and where the individual wines are made?
The Wallula Vineyard practices both sustainable and biodynamic viticulture for some of the top wineries in Washington State.AS: The limited production wines are made in a $4.2 million state-of-the-art winery, three miles northwest of the Walla Walla city limits. The resident winemaker is Gilles Nicault who works with each of the Long Shadows winemakers to sort, crush and ferment their wines in accordance with their preferred methods.
ERH: After fermentation completes, how often do each of the partner winemakers come to the winery to discuss wine development and the ultimate blend with Nicault?
AS: After malolactic fermentation completes, which can be anywhere between the end of January and the end of June, the partner-winemakers come to the winery in Walla Walla to taste the current vintage, the blend for the previous vintage, and to make assessments and future plans.
ERH: How does the partnership work?
AS: The arrangement is unique in that each brand is individually owned and managed as a separate partnership. Long Shadows Vintners, LLC forms the nucleus of the group. Producers own 25 percent of their brand.
A board of directors assumes responsibilities for strategic direction. Along with me as managing partner and chairman, board members who are also investors, include Don Petersen (former president and COO of Ford Motor Co.), Admiral Joseph Prueher (consulting professor and Senior Advisor of Stanford University’s Center for International Security and Cooperation), Anthony von Mandl (proprietor of Mission Hill Family Estate, Okanagan Valley), Arnie Prentice (co-founder of Kibble & Prentice, one of the largest independent financial services firms in Northwest U.S.) and Agustin Huneeus Sr. Everyday operations are managed by me in concert with CEO and General Manager Mike Williamson (with extensive corporate management experience, who has also launched his own wine brand, The Gatekeeper, a high-end Shiraz from McLaren Vale).
ERH: Please discuss some of the vintners and how their current release wines contribute to the reputation of the Long Shadows portfolio. Let's start with Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many famous wineries around the world.
AS: Michel Rolland has released his second vintage, the 2004 Pedestal Merlot, a blend of 77 percent Merlot, 16 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, five percent Cabernet Franc and two percent Petit Verdot. Vineyard sources produced a fully composed wine with ripe berry, cherry
and blackberry fruit. Primary vineyard sources included Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, giving the wine elegance and amazing aromatics, Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, adding ripe black fruit and richness and Wallula Vineyard which contributes deep flavors and complexity.
After fermentation, the wine was transferred to French oak barrels for 23 months. Rolland personally selected the coopers, insisting on Sylvain barrels for elegance and to help polish the mid-palate; and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend aged in Seguin Moreau and Saury barrels to stand-up to the wines' tannins and impart density and richness.
ERH: Since Riesling has risen dramatically in popularity recently, let's discuss 2006 Poet's Leap Riesling.
AS: This wine was crafted by Armin Diel, proprietor of Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe River Valley. Grapes were sourced from older vines in the Yakima Valley as well as Dionysus Vineyard, north of the Tri-Cities area. Dionysus is one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Washington State, with vines planted in 1972 continuing to bear fruit.
Hand-harvested grapes were whole cluster pressed with three percent fermented in a tight-grained, lightly-toasted French oak cask. Diel uses the same tanks at Schlossgut Diel and introduced the technique to give the wine added brightness without imparting wood character. Remaining grapes were fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel to retain freshness and delicate aromas and flavors.
AS: Even though my mother died when I was 11 years old, she, along with my grandmother, are two women who greatly influenced my life.
ERH: You chose Gilles Nicault, former winemaker for Woodward Canyon, to be Long Shadows resident winemaker and to make this wine with you. Why?
AS: Gilles is a talented winemaker and I believe that without him, the Long Shadows project might not have succeeded.
ERH: What are the vineyard sources?
AS: Chester-Kidder 2004 represents a diverse collection of Columbia Valley AVA vineyards, sourced largely from the Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Wahluke Slope. Horse Heaven and Red
Mountain Cabernet give the wine texture and concentration; Horse Heaven Syrah adds dark color and flavors; Cabernet Franc from Weinbau (Wahluke Slope), one of the Columbia Valley’s best Cabernet Franc vineyards, adds aromatic intensity and a small amount of Petit Verdot from Stone Tree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope contributes intensity and tannins to enhance mouthfeel.
ERH: What special winemaking techniques did you and Nicault use?
AS: Chester-Kidder is a blend of 58 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 29 percent Syrah, two varieties that represent the best of the Columbia Valley AVA. Cabernet Franc at 10 percent and three percent Petit Verdot are also part of the blend. It is aged for 28 months in 90 percent tight-grain French oak, which allowed the fruit and oak to integrate completely and gave the wine time to develop round tannins and richness. Ten percent Eastern European oak added complexity and spice.
Cabernet Sauvignon, 16 percent Syrah and 14 percent Barbera from selected Columbia Valley AVA vineyards?
AS: We don't have a great reference for this blend in Washington State or in the U.S. so the Folonaris were interested in making a unique wine.
ERH: What specific vineyards did the Folonaris choose for Saggi?
AS: Sangiovese came from Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and is balanced by the structure and richness of the area's Cabernet Sauvignon. Older vines from Walla Walla added depth. Yakima Valley fruit contributed balance and Red Mountain offered color and structure.
ERH: What special winemaking techniques were employed?
AS: Hand-picked grapes were fermented in two-ton tanks with particular attention given to gentle handling to avoid green characteristics. To achieve a delicate yet full mid-palate, post fermentation skin maceration extended to 25 days or more, before aging the wine in small French oak barrels for 16 months.
AS: He worked with a variety of top Washington State Syrah vineyards to build a layered, complex wine. The Horse Heaven Hills' Alder Ridge, Wallula Vineyard, Red Mountain and the surrounding area vineyards give the wine concentration, richness, dark fruit colors and flavors. Yakima Valley vineyards, including grapes from the well-known Boushey
Vineyard, bring balance to the wine, and a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from Sagemoor's Dionysus Vineyard in Pasco enhances the wine's structure and adds dimension.
ERH: Did Duval use the same techniques he formerly used for Penfold's Grange?
AS: Carefully selected, hand-harvested grapes were fermented in two to four-ton tanks. Like the 2004 vintage of Sequel, the wine was aged predominantly in small French oak barrels, a regime similar to the one John developed for Penfolds RWT to yield a modern, lush style of Shiraz. The 2005 Sequel aged 16 months in 95 percent French oak, and five percent in 300L American oak barrels.
AS: Consider that there are 500,000 to 600,000 wines in the world. Then ask, does the world need another wine? My answer is yes, if it's a great wine. Continued success of Long Shadows Vintners requires a religious commitment to quality. Today, new wines entering the marketplace need to fill a niche. I believe the Long Shadows brands do just that with great wines at sensible prices for their high quality.
Photos courtesy of Long Shadows Vintners
Allen Shoup (AS): Through the 1980s and into the new millennia, I was frustrated about the wine business in Washington State, from growing grapes to management. I knew Robert Mondavi well and I believed that I could establish a Mondavi-type joint venture with winemakers in other wine regions of the world. In addition to Bob [Mondavi], I took advice from Agustin Huneeus Sr. [founder of wineries in California and Chile] and Jim Bancroft [owner of Bancroft Ranch in California].
ERH: What strategies did you use to convince renowned producers to join the Long Shadows venture?
AS: I invited several vintners, among them Agustin Huneeus Sr., Michel Rolland and Armin Diel from Germany, to the sunny slopes of the Columbia River Gorge. They were enthusiastic, so I began to formulate plans to establish individual brands that would reflect the status and acclaim of each vintner.
ERH: Why did you choose the name Long Shadows Vintners?
Allen Shoup is founder and managing director of Long Shadows Vintners.
ERH: Since the launch of Long Shadows five years ago, how has your vision unfolded?
AS: Marketing research indicates that it takes 17 years to bring a new business model to ultimate success. I'm too old and I knew I had to shorten that time. We're now in the fifth year of Long Shadows Vintners and for each vintage that has been released, the wines have received 90 or more points from one or more of the major international wine critics who rate wines by numbers. Long Shadows has also been named Winery of the Year for 2007 by Food & Wine magazine.
ERH: Is there an intention that the Long Shadows winemaker-partners would craft a wine that in some way reflects their native wine regions?
AS: No. Each winemaker is part of an evolving process to discover Columbia Valley AVA vineyards that are suitable to an envisioned wine style.
ERH: How did the Long Shadows winemaker-partners choose the vineyard sites from which they make their individual wines?
AS: They devoted hundreds of hours to sampling the many wines originating from the most important vineyards in the Columbia Valley AVA, and chose specific vineyards that fit the desired style and type of wines each hoped to make. Grapes from every sub-appellation of the Columbia Valley were selected to take advantage of the region’s individual microclimates and terroirs.
ERH: Do these winemakers produce wine from the same vineyard source each vintage?
AS: This, too, is an evolving process to discover vineyards that best suit the partner-winemaker's winemaking style.
ERH: What makes the Columbia Valley AVA so suitable to a wide array of wine grapes?
AS: All variables can be managed, from the inert sandy soils of a high desert to low rainfall, so irrigation regimes can be optimized. The Columbia Valley AVA and its sub-AVAs can have hot days but nights are cold, in the 60s or lower, and we do not have heat spikes. There's no phylloxera, so vines are own-rooted and we don't need to consider clone-rootstock compatibility.
ERH: How many wines are now under the Long Shadows Vintners signature?
AS: There are seven, including Poet’s Leap Riesling by Armin Diel of Schlossgut Diel, Nahe River Valley, Germany; Feather Cabernet Sauvignon, made by Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards, Napa Valley; Michel Rolland's Pedestal Merlot; the Chester-Kidder red blend made by me and winemaker Gilles Nicault; Pirouette, another red blend by Agustin Huneeus, proprietor of Quintessa, Napa Valley and Philippe Melka, Melka Wines, Napa Valley; Sequel Syrah by John Duval, formerly with Penfolds and now John Duval Wines; and Saggi by Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari of Tenute A. & G. Folonari in Tuscany.
ERH: Can you detail how this coterie functions and where the individual wines are made?
The Wallula Vineyard practices both sustainable and biodynamic viticulture for some of the top wineries in Washington State.
ERH: After fermentation completes, how often do each of the partner winemakers come to the winery to discuss wine development and the ultimate blend with Nicault?
AS: After malolactic fermentation completes, which can be anywhere between the end of January and the end of June, the partner-winemakers come to the winery in Walla Walla to taste the current vintage, the blend for the previous vintage, and to make assessments and future plans.
ERH: How does the partnership work?
AS: The arrangement is unique in that each brand is individually owned and managed as a separate partnership. Long Shadows Vintners, LLC forms the nucleus of the group. Producers own 25 percent of their brand.
A board of directors assumes responsibilities for strategic direction. Along with me as managing partner and chairman, board members who are also investors, include Don Petersen (former president and COO of Ford Motor Co.), Admiral Joseph Prueher (consulting professor and Senior Advisor of Stanford University’s Center for International Security and Cooperation), Anthony von Mandl (proprietor of Mission Hill Family Estate, Okanagan Valley), Arnie Prentice (co-founder of Kibble & Prentice, one of the largest independent financial services firms in Northwest U.S.) and Agustin Huneeus Sr. Everyday operations are managed by me in concert with CEO and General Manager Mike Williamson (with extensive corporate management experience, who has also launched his own wine brand, The Gatekeeper, a high-end Shiraz from McLaren Vale).
ERH: Please discuss some of the vintners and how their current release wines contribute to the reputation of the Long Shadows portfolio. Let's start with Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many famous wineries around the world.
AS: Michel Rolland has released his second vintage, the 2004 Pedestal Merlot, a blend of 77 percent Merlot, 16 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, five percent Cabernet Franc and two percent Petit Verdot. Vineyard sources produced a fully composed wine with ripe berry, cherry
and blackberry fruit. Primary vineyard sources included Alder Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills, giving the wine elegance and amazing aromatics, Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, adding ripe black fruit and richness and Wallula Vineyard which contributes deep flavors and complexity.
After fermentation, the wine was transferred to French oak barrels for 23 months. Rolland personally selected the coopers, insisting on Sylvain barrels for elegance and to help polish the mid-palate; and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend aged in Seguin Moreau and Saury barrels to stand-up to the wines' tannins and impart density and richness.
Tasting Notes Pedestal 2004 Merlot, Columbia Valley ($55): is hallmarked by concentrated cherry, blackberry and brown spice aromas and flavors, intertwined through layers of savory tannins. The wine is seamless yet full throttle, showcasing outstanding flavor concentration and richness, carrying through an extended finish. Here's a big Merlot that won't be confused with a Cabernet Sauvignon.
ERH: Since Riesling has risen dramatically in popularity recently, let's discuss 2006 Poet's Leap Riesling.
AS: This wine was crafted by Armin Diel, proprietor of Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe River Valley. Grapes were sourced from older vines in the Yakima Valley as well as Dionysus Vineyard, north of the Tri-Cities area. Dionysus is one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in Washington State, with vines planted in 1972 continuing to bear fruit.
Hand-harvested grapes were whole cluster pressed with three percent fermented in a tight-grained, lightly-toasted French oak cask. Diel uses the same tanks at Schlossgut Diel and introduced the technique to give the wine added brightness without imparting wood character. Remaining grapes were fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel to retain freshness and delicate aromas and flavors.
Tasting Notes 2006 Poets’s Leap ($20): Balanced and focused, the 2006 Poet's Leap is fresh and inviting, offering intriguing aromatics of ripe pear, melon and honey. Crisp, bright and flavorful, the lively acidity is balanced by delicate sweetness (1.4 percent RS) lingering through a long, clean finish.ERH: As we understand it, you named 2004 Chester-Kidder in honor of your mother Elizabeth Chester and your paternal grandmother Maggie Kidder. Why?
AS: Even though my mother died when I was 11 years old, she, along with my grandmother, are two women who greatly influenced my life.
ERH: You chose Gilles Nicault, former winemaker for Woodward Canyon, to be Long Shadows resident winemaker and to make this wine with you. Why?
AS: Gilles is a talented winemaker and I believe that without him, the Long Shadows project might not have succeeded.
ERH: What are the vineyard sources?
AS: Chester-Kidder 2004 represents a diverse collection of Columbia Valley AVA vineyards, sourced largely from the Horse Heaven Hills, Red Mountain and Wahluke Slope. Horse Heaven and Red
Mountain Cabernet give the wine texture and concentration; Horse Heaven Syrah adds dark color and flavors; Cabernet Franc from Weinbau (Wahluke Slope), one of the Columbia Valley’s best Cabernet Franc vineyards, adds aromatic intensity and a small amount of Petit Verdot from Stone Tree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope contributes intensity and tannins to enhance mouthfeel.
ERH: What special winemaking techniques did you and Nicault use?
AS: Chester-Kidder is a blend of 58 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 29 percent Syrah, two varieties that represent the best of the Columbia Valley AVA. Cabernet Franc at 10 percent and three percent Petit Verdot are also part of the blend. It is aged for 28 months in 90 percent tight-grain French oak, which allowed the fruit and oak to integrate completely and gave the wine time to develop round tannins and richness. Ten percent Eastern European oak added complexity and spice.
Tasting Notes 2004 Chester-Kidder ($50): Deep and concentrated, the 2004 Chester-Kidder showcases pure blackberry fruit, complemented by dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Rich, well-integrated tannins give the wine its vibrant mouthfeel and long, enjoyable finish. It's a big boy red with lots of everything to offer enjoyment in the future if it's cellared a few years.ERH: Among Tuscany's most prestigious wine families is the father and son team of Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari (not to be associated with the Folonari brand). How did you entice them to make 2004 Saggi (translated wisdom), 35 percent each of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon, 16 percent Syrah and 14 percent Barbera from selected Columbia Valley AVA vineyards?
AS: We don't have a great reference for this blend in Washington State or in the U.S. so the Folonaris were interested in making a unique wine.
ERH: What specific vineyards did the Folonaris choose for Saggi?
AS: Sangiovese came from Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and is balanced by the structure and richness of the area's Cabernet Sauvignon. Older vines from Walla Walla added depth. Yakima Valley fruit contributed balance and Red Mountain offered color and structure.
ERH: What special winemaking techniques were employed?
AS: Hand-picked grapes were fermented in two-ton tanks with particular attention given to gentle handling to avoid green characteristics. To achieve a delicate yet full mid-palate, post fermentation skin maceration extended to 25 days or more, before aging the wine in small French oak barrels for 16 months.
Tasting Notes Saggi 2004 ($45): The Saggi 2004 offers a panoply of red and dark fruit aromas and flavors, complemented by brown spice aromas. A long and concentrated finish is round and layered, complex and sophisticated.ERH: Australia's John Duval, who for 15 years made the famous Penfold's Grange and now makes an eponymous brand, made 2005 Sequel in the Long Shadows portfolio. With which Columbia Valley AVA vineyards did he work?
AS: He worked with a variety of top Washington State Syrah vineyards to build a layered, complex wine. The Horse Heaven Hills' Alder Ridge, Wallula Vineyard, Red Mountain and the surrounding area vineyards give the wine concentration, richness, dark fruit colors and flavors. Yakima Valley vineyards, including grapes from the well-known Boushey
Vineyard, bring balance to the wine, and a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from Sagemoor's Dionysus Vineyard in Pasco enhances the wine's structure and adds dimension.
ERH: Did Duval use the same techniques he formerly used for Penfold's Grange?
AS: Carefully selected, hand-harvested grapes were fermented in two to four-ton tanks. Like the 2004 vintage of Sequel, the wine was aged predominantly in small French oak barrels, a regime similar to the one John developed for Penfolds RWT to yield a modern, lush style of Shiraz. The 2005 Sequel aged 16 months in 95 percent French oak, and five percent in 300L American oak barrels.
Tasting Notes Sequel 2005 ($55): Sequel 2005 is a deeply-hued Syrah (96 percent with four percent Cabernet Sauvignon), brimming with black cherry, blackberry and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Rich, supple and concentrated, it has superb acid balance that keeps the wine alive on the palate through its long finish. Big and eminently ageable.ERH: What philosophy continues to drive Long Shadows Vintners?
AS: Consider that there are 500,000 to 600,000 wines in the world. Then ask, does the world need another wine? My answer is yes, if it's a great wine. Continued success of Long Shadows Vintners requires a religious commitment to quality. Today, new wines entering the marketplace need to fill a niche. I believe the Long Shadows brands do just that with great wines at sensible prices for their high quality.
Photos courtesy of Long Shadows Vintners
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