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Feature Article
The broad range of styles and flavors of Syrah can all be found in the wines from Sonoma Valley
Sonoma Valley Puts
the Sigh in Syrah
Regional Correspondent Bradley Gray went on a Syrah bender recently, tasting over two dozen Syrahs from Sonoma Valley. He shares his palate-pleasing discovery of a grape that grows well in varied terroir and asks some local winemakers about their Syrah secrets.
by
Bradley Gray
June 11, 2007
Recently, I’ve noticed that Syrahs seem to be popping up left and right, from the northern reaches of the Valley of the Moon to the cooler Carneros Appellation, which marks the southern end of the Sonoma Valley.
Australia is largely responsible for the Syrah explosion. Aussie Shirazes seem to be arriving in the U.S. by the boatload, wowing grocery store shoppers with their jammy, fruit-driven style, and their modest prices.
Sonoma Valley’s bailiwick is diversity, and with the multitude of sub-appellations and microclimates, I expected to find an array of interesting Syrahs. Pinning down exactly what terroir means to these wines was tricky, since every nook and cranny of the Sonoma Valley has totally different growing conditions, soil, slope and exposure.
To find out just what goes into the making of great Sonoma Valley Syrah, I spoke to several Syrah growers, each of which farms a unique part of the appellation. Steve MacRostie makes a terrific, structured Syrah in the southwestern-most
corner of the Sonoma Valley (in Carneros), Ty Caton’s vineyard is a little further up-valley on the eastern slope, while Squire Fridell’s vineyard is nestled in the hills of Bennett Valley, to the northwest.
Steve MacRostie owns MacRostie Winery, and his 2003 MacRostie “Wildcat Mountain Vineyard” Syrah comes from his vineyard on top of a steep ridge at the southern-most point in Carneros. The rocky soil is comprised of cobbly, clay loam, volcanic elements and decomposed andesite.
“Because of our Spartan growing conditions, Wildcat Mountain produces Syrah vines that are balanced, countering the tendency for Syrah to be vigorous. Our vines aren’t,” comments MacRostie. “The flavor profile is therefore more complex, and tends toward the spicy, peppery side of the spectrum. You won’t find jammy wines here, but instead tightly structured wines with the addition of some nice fruit elements. Our crop is light, and Wildcat Mountain gives us some beautiful fruit.”
Ty Caton is owner of the eponymous Ty Caton Vineyards, and his ranch is just north of the town of Sonoma, on a steep hillside of the Mayacamas range. His Syrah grows a stone’s throw from the legendary Monte Rosso Vineyard (detailed in another APPELLATION AMERICA feature). The soil is thin and the terrain
gravelly, with crushed volcanic rock and clay. The steepness gives excellent drainage, and the sun exposure comes in the afternoon from the east.
“My vineyard is relatively steep, and it’s along the cooler side of the Sonoma Valley. It’s a warmer area, with easterly exposure,” explains Caton. “These elements lend themselves to dark fruit character, with balanced, lively spice. To me, this vineyard offers the best of both worlds.”
Another distinctive Sonoma Valley Syrah comes from GlenLyon Vineyards and Winery, which is on the western side of the Sonoma Valley (technically Bennett Valley) and further to the north. Here, Squire Fridell farms Syrah vines that give a very definite signature of “place.”
“I guess the key word would have to be exposure,” says Fridell. “If it’s too warm, Syrah looses its delicacy and begins to taste like Petite Sirah.”
Fridell explains that he treats his Syrah like he would his kids.
“You have to monitor Syrah, and limit cane growth. It wants to produce six tons per acre, and would make an excellent wild grape vine. If you hold it back, it has to struggle. You don’t give your kids everything they want. You have to let them struggle and earn things. That makes them better, and Syrah is the same way.”
“We have great exposure here,” continues Fridell. “On rolling hills, the sun’s rays are defused (as opposed to flat ground). We have a mixture of great ingredients. It’s not too hot or too cold, and there is a distinctive taste in all of our Syrahs that says ‘GlenLyon.’”
Sonoma Valley has been in the midst of an identity crisis for some time. Although it does produce some terrific Cabernets, the neighboring Napa Valley owns that crown. Sonoma Valley is home to old-vine Zinfandel, some great Chardonnays, Pinots and a bevy of other interesting wines that thrive here.
I rounded up a broad range of current-release Sonoma Valley Syrahs, and tasted through them all in an afternoon. All of them were pretty darned delicious, and the styles ranged from light and berry-like, to masculine bruisers. It really makes one think of “what’s for dinner” before rewarding one wine over another.
Get a taste of Sonoma Valley Syrahs wines. Read Bradley Gray’s reviews of fabulous Syrahs.
Australia is largely responsible for the Syrah explosion. Aussie Shirazes seem to be arriving in the U.S. by the boatload, wowing grocery store shoppers with their jammy, fruit-driven style, and their modest prices.
Sonoma Valley’s bailiwick is diversity, and with the multitude of sub-appellations and microclimates, I expected to find an array of interesting Syrahs. Pinning down exactly what terroir means to these wines was tricky, since every nook and cranny of the Sonoma Valley has totally different growing conditions, soil, slope and exposure.
To find out just what goes into the making of great Sonoma Valley Syrah, I spoke to several Syrah growers, each of which farms a unique part of the appellation. Steve MacRostie makes a terrific, structured Syrah in the southwestern-most
corner of the Sonoma Valley (in Carneros), Ty Caton’s vineyard is a little further up-valley on the eastern slope, while Squire Fridell’s vineyard is nestled in the hills of Bennett Valley, to the northwest.
Steve MacRostie owns MacRostie Winery, and his 2003 MacRostie “Wildcat Mountain Vineyard” Syrah comes from his vineyard on top of a steep ridge at the southern-most point in Carneros. The rocky soil is comprised of cobbly, clay loam, volcanic elements and decomposed andesite.
“Because of our Spartan growing conditions, Wildcat Mountain produces Syrah vines that are balanced, countering the tendency for Syrah to be vigorous. Our vines aren’t,” comments MacRostie. “The flavor profile is therefore more complex, and tends toward the spicy, peppery side of the spectrum. You won’t find jammy wines here, but instead tightly structured wines with the addition of some nice fruit elements. Our crop is light, and Wildcat Mountain gives us some beautiful fruit.”
Ty Caton is owner of the eponymous Ty Caton Vineyards, and his ranch is just north of the town of Sonoma, on a steep hillside of the Mayacamas range. His Syrah grows a stone’s throw from the legendary Monte Rosso Vineyard (detailed in another APPELLATION AMERICA feature). The soil is thin and the terrain
gravelly, with crushed volcanic rock and clay. The steepness gives excellent drainage, and the sun exposure comes in the afternoon from the east.
“My vineyard is relatively steep, and it’s along the cooler side of the Sonoma Valley. It’s a warmer area, with easterly exposure,” explains Caton. “These elements lend themselves to dark fruit character, with balanced, lively spice. To me, this vineyard offers the best of both worlds.”
Another distinctive Sonoma Valley Syrah comes from GlenLyon Vineyards and Winery, which is on the western side of the Sonoma Valley (technically Bennett Valley) and further to the north. Here, Squire Fridell farms Syrah vines that give a very definite signature of “place.”
“I guess the key word would have to be exposure,” says Fridell. “If it’s too warm, Syrah looses its delicacy and begins to taste like Petite Sirah.”
Fridell explains that he treats his Syrah like he would his kids.
“You have to monitor Syrah, and limit cane growth. It wants to produce six tons per acre, and would make an excellent wild grape vine. If you hold it back, it has to struggle. You don’t give your kids everything they want. You have to let them struggle and earn things. That makes them better, and Syrah is the same way.”
“We have great exposure here,” continues Fridell. “On rolling hills, the sun’s rays are defused (as opposed to flat ground). We have a mixture of great ingredients. It’s not too hot or too cold, and there is a distinctive taste in all of our Syrahs that says ‘GlenLyon.’”
Sonoma Valley has been in the midst of an identity crisis for some time. Although it does produce some terrific Cabernets, the neighboring Napa Valley owns that crown. Sonoma Valley is home to old-vine Zinfandel, some great Chardonnays, Pinots and a bevy of other interesting wines that thrive here.
I rounded up a broad range of current-release Sonoma Valley Syrahs, and tasted through them all in an afternoon. All of them were pretty darned delicious, and the styles ranged from light and berry-like, to masculine bruisers. It really makes one think of “what’s for dinner” before rewarding one wine over another.
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