Paul Gregutt (PG): Walla Walla certainly has acquired a reputation for excellence, and deservedly so. But since so much of the wine is sourced from Columbia Valley vineyards rather than within the AVA, it is still difficult for most consumers to put their finger on exactly what makes Walla Walla-grown grapes distinctive.

Holly Turner (HT): What I see and taste is dependent upon which part of the region you are talking about. Walla Walla contains many different sub-regions. From the Seven Hills vineyard, for example, I generally find fleshy, concentrated, really ripe fruit. It tastes like a hotter area, and the fruit ripens earlier than the rest of the valley.

From the base of the Blue Mountains, at Les Collines, it’s coming from a longer growing season. I think you get some bigger tannins but leaner, more elegant wines. And then as you come down the valley, heading west to Pepper Bridge, you get more elegance. But that fruit doesn’t have the weight or the body of the Seven Hills.

PG: What about the vineyards located to the north side of the valley?

HT: One which we use is Minick Hills -- I really love the fruit. It’s got such nice concentration and extraction. It’s about the same elevation as Ahlers, which was planted by one of the founders of Three Rivers. It’s a good spot for the thick-skinned grapes -- Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes really build up their tannins.

PG: If there is a trouble spot, as evidenced by the periodic winter freezes, it would seem to be the valley floor, where the appellation broadens out to the west.

HT: The valley floor gets very hot and then very cold; I don’t know that it’s the right place to plant in the valley. They get early frost and when it gets really hot, the flavors can get baked out. But if you go to a higher elevation, such as Rick Small’s Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard, you’ll find another unique site.

PG: Very difficult to get vines established up there!

HT: A lot of what we’re waiting for in Walla Walla is vine age. You have to get up in elevation and get the roots established to really get the character. But in general, Cabernet Sauvignon takes a long time to get established and develop ripe, mature characteristics.

PG: What do you see as the defining grape or grapes for Walla Walla?

HT: Syrah definitely seems to be consistently good here. I haven’t worked with everything around here, but I think Cabernet Sauvignon, at a higher elevation and a nice long growing season, can be very interesting and complete. It’s a long growing season in Walla Walla, so sugars and potential alcohol don’t shoot through the roof too early. You can get the ripe tannins and concentrated flavors before everything blows out.

PG: In general, the Syrah in Washington State has been wonderful.

HT: Yes, here in Walla Walla you can taste Syrah from Les Collines, Ahlers and Christophe Baron’s vineyards -- all young vines -- and they are all wonderfully different. Syrah definitely seems to be the star of the show right now.

PG: What’s next for Walla Walla?

HT: In the early days, Walla Walla’s reputation was built on big reds. That’s what people planted and that's what has become quite coveted. But I see no reason why white wine grapes can’t be planted here. It’s just that reds are easier to make, especially for young wineries. I’d love to see more white grapes planted around here. Why aren’t there grapes everywhere? The potential is huge!

PG: Thank you, Holly Turner.

~ Paul Gregutt, Regional Correspondent – Washington State


To comment on Paul Gregutt’s writings and thoughts, contact him at p.gregutt@appellationamerica.com