Laura Ness (LN): What do you think the average wine-aware consumer in CA thinks when they hear “Santa Cruz Mountains”? Do we have a story, a particular identity?

Marty Mathis (MM): I doubt that the average wine consumer knows anything about the Santa Cruz Mountains. They may know the Ridge, Mount Eden or David Bruce names, but they probably don’t know that this is where they are grow their grapes. Our identity will remain hard to define just because the climate diversity of this mountain range allows for fine examples of so many varieties, that I doubt that we’ll ever be known for just one. That said, ideally we would become known for small producers and even smaller vineyards that yield wines of the highest quality expressing a style in keeping with traditional European structure and finesse.

LN: What varietals do you think people associate with our appellation?

MM: Pinot, Cabernet and Chardonnay. Some day we may find a new grape variety that carves out a home here; one that matches well with our soils and cooler climate. The only limitation is the public acceptance and the marketability of new wine types. Syrah has not turned out to be easy to sell and many like myself are loosing patience with the public. It’s unfortunate, because this may lead someday to the decline of Syrah in California. We have the three main varietals because that’s what sells, and no amount of passion from a winemaker can make a new variety successful until the public is ready to expand its buying habits.

LN: That’s too bad, as I know your ‘03 Syrah was a big hit at the Sacramento State Fair, where it tied with Storrs for Best Red of Region. Speaking of grape varieties, how many acres of vineyards do you personally have planted and what varieties? Do you plan to add anything?

MM: My mother, Kathryn Kennedy planted 7 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1973 at her home on Pierce Road. We refer to it as our Estate Vineyard and it represents our highest expression of winegrowing. Cabernet Sauvignon is our flagship wine. I have planted several experimental blocks of other varieties, like Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and most recently a one half acre field blend using Spanish and Portuguese varieties.

LN: What drove your mother’s decision to plant Cabernet initially? Were there any varieties which proved problematic?

MM: One of the greatest decisions Kathryn ever made was to specialize in one variety for her entire estate. She might have planted a bit of this and a bit of that, but that wouldn’t have allowed the focused effort which she put into making a truly great wine from her land. Even though I have added other wines to our line-up, I continue to be thankful to her for handing down to me that original vision. As for problem grapes; Tempranillo turned out to be highly susceptible to Pierces Disease and most of the 900 vines I planted in 1994 have died.

LN: Describe the characteristics of the Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate vineyard. How old is the vineyard? What has been the best vintage of this wine you have produced so far?

MM: Our vines are 33 years old now. The best years are those grown in cooler summers with a long hang time and later harvest dates. ’80, ‘88, ‘90, ‘91, ‘92, ‘96, ‘99, ‘00, ‘02, are my favorites, at the time of writing this.

LN: How would you contrast (or not) Cab from your estate with Cab from neighboring Saratoga vineyards? Is there a significant resemblance that makes you say “this is Saratoga Cab?”

MM: There is a character I’d associate with Cabernets from any location on the valley side of the mountain range, from Redwood Retreat, through Los Gatos and Saratoga and up past Los Altos. It’s a spicy mineral flavor, not loamy earth but rather minerally, iron/tar like. To my taste that runs through most of the Cabernet from the warmer side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.

LN: What are the differences of, say, Woodside Cab in contrast to Saratoga?

MM: Mostly climate, particularly the temperature. Saratoga being hotter, yields wines with more alcohol and a richer texture, while Woodside has the ability to give wines of great sophistication and elegance, more akin to Bordeaux. The best are very attractive that way.  

LN: Do you think it would be useful to consumers to segment the appellation into sub-appellations? Is it confusing or does it give people a way to identify the flavor profiles they are looking for?

MM: Timely question! I have always been among a majority of principals in our winegrowers association that strongly resist the tendency to fracture off sub-appellations within the SCM AVA. As I mentioned earlier, we have a hard enough time getting the average consumer to hear our little voice, when we work together. Smaller sub-groups would only serve to weaken that voice and most critically to add confusion to the message of where and who we are.

Recently there is an effort afoot by wineries in the Corralitos area to form a joint marketing effort and publicize a tour map for that sub district. While I understand the desire to bring more tourists, and their dollars, to the tasting rooms, I think it’s detrimental to the SCM winegrowers’ effort as a whole. I would certainly hate to see that group evolve into a call for a Corralitos sub-appellation.

LN: Do you know how many acres of Cab are planted throughout the SCM appellation? Is it on the rise or at a point of stasis? Do you see anyone planting more of the other Bordeaux varietals and if so, which ones and where?

MM: Right now, there are more Cabernet grapes available for my winery to buy than there were 15 years ago. There has been a dramatic explosion of tiny vineyards, front yards, back yards and multi-millionaire estates in the Silicon Valley side of the AVA. Our winery has benefited from access to those tiny parcels and we produce a label called Small Lot Cabernet from those sources.

LN: Now to Premier Cruz: what were the driving factors behind this event? What do you hope to accomplish?

MM: Matt Oettinger of Fernwood Cellars was the leader, but my support followed closely behind. We are on a committee along with Don Reisen (Ridge), Jeff Patterson (Mount Eden), and Wilma Sturrock (President of Ridge, and also current President of the SCMWA). We believe deeply in the world-class character of the Cabernets from this area and we personally prefer their style and classic structure to those wines from the better known region of Napa. The Premier Cruz event is a way to shine a spotlight on our wines and awaken the local population to their existence.

LN: What is the primary message you want the public to take away from this experience?

MM: Consumers will have a first hand chance to taste many examples on the same night. We hope that they too can detect a common style and a high level of quality. If tasters walk away with a better appreciation of these wines, we will be well on our way to taking our long deserved place as one of California’s great Cabernet regions.

~ Laura Ness, Regional Correspondent – Santa Cruz Mountains


To comment on Laura Ness’s writings and thoughts, contact her at l.ness@appellationamerica.com