Benessere's Chris Dearden relies on the best clones, imported from Italy, and his own knowledge of growing grapes in California to ensure Italian grape varieties are well represented on the Napa wine list.
St. Helena ~ Napa Valley (AVA)
Viva Italia: An Interview with Benessere’s Chris Dearden
“...The easy answer is that over-used word, 'terroir.' We have warm days and cool nights, which is perfect for a high-acid varietal like Sangiovese. It helps mature the fruit and it doesn’t turn it into raisins.”
by
Alan Goldfarb
October 4, 2006
Chris Dearden is a proponent of Italian wines. For instance, he’s the only grower of
Sagrantino grapes -- responsible for the signature wine of the little Umbrian village of Montefalco -- in the Napa Valley. He also makes about 50 cases of
Aglianico, the premiere red grape of Campania, from the only vineyard in the Napa Valley growing that variety. Soon, he may be the only one left in the Napa Valley making Sangiovese.
I wanted to know why Dearden believes his vineyard in the
St. Helena appellation can find success with
Sangiovese, when it seems to be a dying, or already demised varietal in this country.
Dearden has been
Benessere Vineyards’ only winemaker since its inception in 1995, as well as the property’s GM. He likens Sangiovese’s plight in this country to that of
Pinot Noir.
In a recent interview, Dearden suggested that Sangiovese may take as long to flourish in
California as it has taken Pinot Noir.
Dearden makes 1,400 cases of Sangiovese and half of his 7,000-case production is made by blending Sangiovese. Benessere grows Sangiovese on 13 acres next to the Napa River a few miles north of the town of St. Helena. On the 34 acre vineyard, there are also 10 acres of
Merlot, five of
Zinfandel, 2 ½ each of
Cabernet Sauvignon and
Syrah and one acre of
Muscat.
Dearden’s soils are comprised of gravelly clay, bale loam, and sandy bands that are 3 to 4 feet deep with drain tiles that absorb heavy rains or overflows from the nearby river.
Alan Goldfarb (AG): Why do you think Sangiovese does so well on your property?
To read the rest of this article (and much else besides), 
