 
|
|
Feature Article
Drafting Lodi’s seven new sub-appellations was a monumental undertaking of historical, climatic, and geological research.
Lodi Architects Seven New Appellations
After three years in bureaucratic limbo, Lodi producers can now designate more specific origins for their wines.
by
Dave Chandler
July 31, 2006
The Lodi American Viticultural Area (AVA) is rapidly becoming recognized as one of the most prolific grape growing regions in the world. Of the 552,000 acres that comprise the Lodi appellation nearly 100,000 are planted with winegrapes, producing more of the top five California varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel – than any other wine district in the state, and more ‘Zin’ than any other district in the world.
Because of its sheer vastness, the simple ‘Lodi’ designation fails to articulate the wide diversity of terroir that exists within the half million acres of the appellation. The ecological differences inherent to various areas of the Lodi AVA directly affect the characteristics of wine made from grapes grown in different parts of the expansive district.
This issue of ambiguity motivated a small group of local growers and vintners to initiate the process for the creation of sub-appellations within the existing Lodi appellation. These would allow local wineries to employ appellation-specific marketing and education tactics and local growers to increase the prestige and price of their fruit once wines made from grapes grown in their sub-appellation received recognition and acclaim. This formula has proven successful for a number of sub-appellations such as the Los Carneros AVA in Napa.
The movement began when local grower and winery-owner Markus Bokisch wanted to create a sub-appellation in the eastern portion of Lodi in the Clement Hills, where his eponymous named winery, Bokisch Vineyards, and the majority of his vineyards are located. After preliminary research, Bokisch realized that to distinguish the unique qualities of the Clements Hills it was necessary to define the other regions of Lodi in order to provide a context for comparing the other sub-appellations. Bokisch and grower turned winery-owner Keith Watts created the Lodi American Viticultural Areas Steering committee which, with the assistance of the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission and the Lodi Appellation Wineries Association, held meetings to field the questions of the Lodi wine and viticulture community.
Two chief concerns were that the larger wineries would oppose the creation of sub-appellations because it would drive the prices of grapes higher, raising costs for wineries and potentially making it difficult for growers to find buyers after harvest. The second objection was that since Lodi has really only been promoting itself as a premium wine producer for the last twenty years, many people felt that it was too soon to roll out seven new vehicles for marketing Lodi wines, fearing the Lodi name was not yet established enough to exchange it for appellation names unfamiliar to the consumer.
Resolution of these concerns was swift; two of the five largest producers in Lodi, Delicato and Sutter Home, embraced the creation of the sub-appellations while the other three stayed neutral. The second issue was settled with a compromise. Wineries could use both ‘Lodi’ as well as the sub-appellation name on their labels, alleviating the concern that the new sub-appellations would weaken the Lodi name, which the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission had worked so hard to establish.
After Bokisch and Watts had garnered enough support for the project they enlisted the aid of the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission and Lodi Appellation Wineries Association, formed the Lodi Appellation Viticultural Areas (LAVA) committee and created focus groups to research and decide on a name for each of the distinct viticultural areas within the greater Lodi Appellation.
The combined efforts of the Lodi American Viticulture Areas, the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission, and the Lodi Appellation Wineries Association yielded the most extensive historical and science-based document outlining the diversity in climate, soil, topography, and elevation of any appellation ever to be submitted to the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), known at that time as the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF).
The conclusion of their research was that seven distinct growing regions exist in the greater Lodi Appellation and deserve recognition as individual and distinct viticultural regions. Their names are Alta Mesa, Borden Ranch, Clements Hills, Cosumnes River, Jahant, Mokelumne River and Sloughhouse.
Paradoxically, the immense speed and efficiency with which the document was researched and produced was met by the BATF/TTB with an equal degree of sluggishness. The LAVA committee submitted their research document petitioning for the creation of seven separate AVAs in the fall of 2002. In January 2003, the BATF was transformed into the TTB, and the approval of the seven sub-appellations did not come until July 19, 2006.
Beginning on August 20, 2006, wineries will be able to designate the new appellation names on their labels. The three year interim period between the initial proposal and final approval was no doubt in part related to the bureaucratic transition from the BATF to the TTB. Another factor in the slow resolution was that the document submitted was by far the largest and most thoroughly researched petition ever submitted. In fact, the scientific research and documentation submitted by LAVA was so thorough that other appellations such as Paso Robles are using the same method, calling it “The Lodi Model.”
Now that Lodi has received approval and the seven appellations have been created the work falls to the vintners, winemakers and marketers of the Lodi viticultural community to effectively educate the wine consumer with an understanding and appreciation for each individual appellation through the unique characteristics of their wines.
To that end, a brief explanation of each of Lodi’s seven new appellations can be found below.
Alta Mesa AVA – This appellation, located in northern central Lodi, has 55,400 acres of which 5,300 are are under vine. As its name suggests (Spanish for high-table) this area is distinguished by its mesa-like elevation, ranging from 35 to 140 feet. The area is 90% composed of dense, heavy clay and gravel soils which inhibit deep rooting. Alta Mesa is second to the Sloughhouse appellation as the warmest area in Lodi. This appellation is red wine country with most acres planted to Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot.
Borden Ranch AVA – This appellation, located in east central Lodi, has 70,000 acres of which 12,000 are under vine. This AVA is the most topographically diverse of any Lodi appellation with a low of 73 feet in the west and a high of 520 feet near the Sierra Nevada. Another defining feature is the well drained, stone laden stream deposit soils of Laguna and Dry Creek, two streams which flow from the Sierra Foothills eastward to the San Joaquin Valley, marking the northern and southern boundaries of the appellation respectively. Borden Ranch is largely comprised of the expansive vineyards of Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, Sutter Home and Delicato.
Clements Hills AVA – This appellation, located in southeastern Lodi, has 85,400 acres of which 21,700 are under vine. The Clements Hills AVA is the second largest appellation in Lodi and is characterized by the rolling hills and cliffs, anywhere from 90 feet to 400 feet, emerging out of the flat San Joaquin Valley to form the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Varied microclimates result from the hilly terrain, but the Clements Hills Appellation is generally warmer and wetter than western Lodi. This region produces red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Tempranillo.
Cosumnes River AVA – This appellation, located in northwestern Lodi, has 54,700 acres total, of which 3,500 are under vine. With elevations dipping to sea-level and rising to 48 feet, the Cosumnes River appellation has a ‘relatively cool and windy growing season’ and ‘young, alluvial soils and low-elevation terrain.’ These factors contribute to persistent maritime and inland fog, contributing to a cooler climate than other Lodi appellations. Not surprisingly white varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are dominant here.
Jahant AVA – This appellation, located in central Lodi, has 28,000 acres total, of which 9,000 are under vine. Jahant is the smallest of the Lodi appellations and is most aptly defined by its unique pink Rocklin-Jahant loam soils, so much so that the boundaries of the appellation are marked by the extent of these soils. Jahant’s climate is cool and dry due to its close proximity to the Mokelumne River, Sacramento Delta, and relatively low elevations, ranging from 10 feet to 100 feet. Despite its small size, it is hard to define the appellation’s signature grapes as many varieties are planted here, both red and white.
Mokelumne River AVA – This appellation, located in central Lodi, south of Jahant, has 85,700 acres total, of which 42,000 are currently under vine. Containing Lodi’s most vigorous soils, they are of a fine, granular texture, running deep and draining well. The elevation here is relatively low, ranging from a low of 10 feet to a high of 100 feet. This area was the first to be planted in Lodi and is home to Lodi’s major wine producing facilities.
Sloughhouse AVA – This appellation, located in the northeastern corner of Lodi, has 78,800 acres total, of which 7,000 are currently under vine. Sloughhouse is the warmest of the Lodi appellations with upland elevations of 590 feet. Situated on the western foothills of the Sierra Range, it receives the least moderation from cooling Pacific Ocean winds that funnel up the Sacramento Delta, resulting in less fog but higher annual precipitation. Sloughhouse separates the valley and mountains and is described as transitional terrain of diverse topography, low vigor soils and great climactic variation. Amongst its signature grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Zinfandel.
~ David Chandler, Lodi Regional Correspondent
To comment on David Chandler’s writings and thoughts, contact him at d.chandler@appellationamerica.com
Because of its sheer vastness, the simple ‘Lodi’ designation fails to articulate the wide diversity of terroir that exists within the half million acres of the appellation. The ecological differences inherent to various areas of the Lodi AVA directly affect the characteristics of wine made from grapes grown in different parts of the expansive district.
This issue of ambiguity motivated a small group of local growers and vintners to initiate the process for the creation of sub-appellations within the existing Lodi appellation. These would allow local wineries to employ appellation-specific marketing and education tactics and local growers to increase the prestige and price of their fruit once wines made from grapes grown in their sub-appellation received recognition and acclaim. This formula has proven successful for a number of sub-appellations such as the Los Carneros AVA in Napa.
The movement began when local grower and winery-owner Markus Bokisch wanted to create a sub-appellation in the eastern portion of Lodi in the Clement Hills, where his eponymous named winery, Bokisch Vineyards, and the majority of his vineyards are located. After preliminary research, Bokisch realized that to distinguish the unique qualities of the Clements Hills it was necessary to define the other regions of Lodi in order to provide a context for comparing the other sub-appellations. Bokisch and grower turned winery-owner Keith Watts created the Lodi American Viticultural Areas Steering committee which, with the assistance of the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission and the Lodi Appellation Wineries Association, held meetings to field the questions of the Lodi wine and viticulture community.
Two chief concerns were that the larger wineries would oppose the creation of sub-appellations because it would drive the prices of grapes higher, raising costs for wineries and potentially making it difficult for growers to find buyers after harvest. The second objection was that since Lodi has really only been promoting itself as a premium wine producer for the last twenty years, many people felt that it was too soon to roll out seven new vehicles for marketing Lodi wines, fearing the Lodi name was not yet established enough to exchange it for appellation names unfamiliar to the consumer.
Resolution of these concerns was swift; two of the five largest producers in Lodi, Delicato and Sutter Home, embraced the creation of the sub-appellations while the other three stayed neutral. The second issue was settled with a compromise. Wineries could use both ‘Lodi’ as well as the sub-appellation name on their labels, alleviating the concern that the new sub-appellations would weaken the Lodi name, which the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission had worked so hard to establish.
After Bokisch and Watts had garnered enough support for the project they enlisted the aid of the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission and Lodi Appellation Wineries Association, formed the Lodi Appellation Viticultural Areas (LAVA) committee and created focus groups to research and decide on a name for each of the distinct viticultural areas within the greater Lodi Appellation.
The combined efforts of the Lodi American Viticulture Areas, the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission, and the Lodi Appellation Wineries Association yielded the most extensive historical and science-based document outlining the diversity in climate, soil, topography, and elevation of any appellation ever to be submitted to the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), known at that time as the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF).
The conclusion of their research was that seven distinct growing regions exist in the greater Lodi Appellation and deserve recognition as individual and distinct viticultural regions. Their names are Alta Mesa, Borden Ranch, Clements Hills, Cosumnes River, Jahant, Mokelumne River and Sloughhouse.
Paradoxically, the immense speed and efficiency with which the document was researched and produced was met by the BATF/TTB with an equal degree of sluggishness. The LAVA committee submitted their research document petitioning for the creation of seven separate AVAs in the fall of 2002. In January 2003, the BATF was transformed into the TTB, and the approval of the seven sub-appellations did not come until July 19, 2006.
Beginning on August 20, 2006, wineries will be able to designate the new appellation names on their labels. The three year interim period between the initial proposal and final approval was no doubt in part related to the bureaucratic transition from the BATF to the TTB. Another factor in the slow resolution was that the document submitted was by far the largest and most thoroughly researched petition ever submitted. In fact, the scientific research and documentation submitted by LAVA was so thorough that other appellations such as Paso Robles are using the same method, calling it “The Lodi Model.”
Now that Lodi has received approval and the seven appellations have been created the work falls to the vintners, winemakers and marketers of the Lodi viticultural community to effectively educate the wine consumer with an understanding and appreciation for each individual appellation through the unique characteristics of their wines.
To that end, a brief explanation of each of Lodi’s seven new appellations can be found below.
Alta Mesa AVA – This appellation, located in northern central Lodi, has 55,400 acres of which 5,300 are are under vine. As its name suggests (Spanish for high-table) this area is distinguished by its mesa-like elevation, ranging from 35 to 140 feet. The area is 90% composed of dense, heavy clay and gravel soils which inhibit deep rooting. Alta Mesa is second to the Sloughhouse appellation as the warmest area in Lodi. This appellation is red wine country with most acres planted to Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot.
Borden Ranch AVA – This appellation, located in east central Lodi, has 70,000 acres of which 12,000 are under vine. This AVA is the most topographically diverse of any Lodi appellation with a low of 73 feet in the west and a high of 520 feet near the Sierra Nevada. Another defining feature is the well drained, stone laden stream deposit soils of Laguna and Dry Creek, two streams which flow from the Sierra Foothills eastward to the San Joaquin Valley, marking the northern and southern boundaries of the appellation respectively. Borden Ranch is largely comprised of the expansive vineyards of Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, Sutter Home and Delicato.
Clements Hills AVA – This appellation, located in southeastern Lodi, has 85,400 acres of which 21,700 are under vine. The Clements Hills AVA is the second largest appellation in Lodi and is characterized by the rolling hills and cliffs, anywhere from 90 feet to 400 feet, emerging out of the flat San Joaquin Valley to form the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Varied microclimates result from the hilly terrain, but the Clements Hills Appellation is generally warmer and wetter than western Lodi. This region produces red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Tempranillo.
Cosumnes River AVA – This appellation, located in northwestern Lodi, has 54,700 acres total, of which 3,500 are under vine. With elevations dipping to sea-level and rising to 48 feet, the Cosumnes River appellation has a ‘relatively cool and windy growing season’ and ‘young, alluvial soils and low-elevation terrain.’ These factors contribute to persistent maritime and inland fog, contributing to a cooler climate than other Lodi appellations. Not surprisingly white varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are dominant here.
Jahant AVA – This appellation, located in central Lodi, has 28,000 acres total, of which 9,000 are under vine. Jahant is the smallest of the Lodi appellations and is most aptly defined by its unique pink Rocklin-Jahant loam soils, so much so that the boundaries of the appellation are marked by the extent of these soils. Jahant’s climate is cool and dry due to its close proximity to the Mokelumne River, Sacramento Delta, and relatively low elevations, ranging from 10 feet to 100 feet. Despite its small size, it is hard to define the appellation’s signature grapes as many varieties are planted here, both red and white.
Mokelumne River AVA – This appellation, located in central Lodi, south of Jahant, has 85,700 acres total, of which 42,000 are currently under vine. Containing Lodi’s most vigorous soils, they are of a fine, granular texture, running deep and draining well. The elevation here is relatively low, ranging from a low of 10 feet to a high of 100 feet. This area was the first to be planted in Lodi and is home to Lodi’s major wine producing facilities.
Sloughhouse AVA – This appellation, located in the northeastern corner of Lodi, has 78,800 acres total, of which 7,000 are currently under vine. Sloughhouse is the warmest of the Lodi appellations with upland elevations of 590 feet. Situated on the western foothills of the Sierra Range, it receives the least moderation from cooling Pacific Ocean winds that funnel up the Sacramento Delta, resulting in less fog but higher annual precipitation. Sloughhouse separates the valley and mountains and is described as transitional terrain of diverse topography, low vigor soils and great climactic variation. Amongst its signature grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Zinfandel.
~ David Chandler, Lodi Regional Correspondent
To comment on David Chandler’s writings and thoughts, contact him at d.chandler@appellationamerica.com
