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Feature Article
Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery is perhaps the most unpretentious winery in the south Okanagan Valley
Gehringer Brothers after 20 years: still representing high quality, good value, and refreshing modesty.
Today, when others in the Okanagan are testing the market with $40 to $60 table wines, the brothers sell no wine except Icewine for more than $20 a bottle.
by
John Schreiner
June 29, 2006
Such is the modesty of the winegrowing Gehringer brothers that Walter seemed surprised when reminded recently that this year is the 20th anniversary of the opening of their winery.
Nothing special has been planned for the anniversary. In any event, the first vintage Walter and brother Gordon made for their winery was 1985 – a more important date in Walter’s recollection.
He and his younger brother run the most unpretentious winery in the south Okanagan. It is the largest winery in British Columbia without a web site – just one example of how little desire the brothers have in being flashy. This is one of only a handful of wineries still providing free samples in its tasting room, even though a substantial number of wine tourists stop by during the season.
Indeed, the brothers leave money on the table all the time. From their very first sales season (when they sold out by Christmas), the brothers have charged less for quality wines than virtually all of their peers. Today, when others are testing the market with $40 to $60 table wines, the brothers sell no wine except Icewine for more than $20 a bottle.
For example, this summer Gehringer Brothers is releasing a very well made 2005 Merlot for just $15 a bottle. This is the best value red wine in the Okanagan this year.
Their father, Helmut, and their uncle Karl, immigrated to the Okanagan from Germany, establishing various businesses before the brothers were born. Walter was born in 1955; Gordon in 1959. The Gehringer family conceived their estate winery in 1973 when Walter was finishing high school. At the time, British Columbia had only half a dozen wineries.
The family went about realizing its objective with meticulous preparation. Walter was dispatched to the renowned University of Geisenheim in Germany. A star pupil, he was the first Canadian in 1978 to graduate from Geisenheim. His brother got his winemaking degree at Weinsberg, another German wine school. The two universities have different approaches: Geisenheim is research-oriented while Weinsberg is more practical. The choice of different schools was deliberate, for it equipped the brothers with different but complementary skills.
While the brothers were at school, their father and uncle spent seven years researching microclimates on the Okanagan. In 1981, the family finally chose a vineyard site, half of a peninsula jutting out into the valley with excellent southeastern exposure. Fourteen years later, they bought the other half and now own 26 hectares of vineyard, supporting (along with purchased grapes) an annual production of about 30,000 cases.
Careful students of climate, the Gehringers initially planted (or retained some vines already planted) white varieties judged either to be winter hardy (such as Verdelet and Riesling) or sufficiently early ripening (like Schönburger) to be picked long before frost hit the vineyards. In the Okanagan’s previous 50 or 60 years of grape growing, hard freezes had a habit of devastating the vines every seven to 10 years. The Gehringer brothers were not taking a chance with risky varieties. Their caution seemed warranted in 1983 when a hard winter damaged many of their Schönburger vines.
As well, the varieties planted were those they had worked with in Germany. Walter, for example, apprenticed at the Guntrum winery on the Rhine. Their training enabled the brothers to launch with white wines, typically Germanic in style, that were clean, fresh, fruity and consistently appealing. Success came quickly. A few years after Gehringer Brothers opened, the federal government did a tasting to select wines for Canadian embassies. The brothers submitted five wines and all were chosen.
When the brothers bought the adjoining half of their peninsula in 1995 (which they call the Dry Rock Vineyard), it still was planted largely with hybrid varieties. They replanted, but not with German varieties; instead, they filled the vineyard with such French vines as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
This decision, while somewhat market driven, resulted from the brothers noting that the Okanagan climate is warming and the French varieties no longer are as risky as they once were. Today, there is plenty of data and research to support that. A decade ago, the Gehringers were among the first in the valley to pick up on the warming trend.
Today, the Gehringer Brothers portfolio is remarkably broad. The Germanic whites with which they made their initial reputation remain in the vineyard and remain popular. In fact, Walter believes that the warmer winters have extended the longevity of the vines. He once expected he would start replanting when vines reach 25 or so years but, since there is no sign of declining productivity, he has no idea when he will need to replant.
At the same time, the French vines are performing very well. The Dry Rock Sauvignon Blanc, for example, is as crisp and refreshingly zesty as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
In recent years, the quality of the fruit from their vineyards has enabled the Gehringers to launch reserve tier wines, designated Optimum.
Predictably, the wines, if understated, are delicious – and priced slightly lower than everyone else’s reserve wines.
The following are my notes of Gehringer Brothers current releases (all wines are VQA – Okanagan Valley):
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Dry 2005 ($12.99)
Two decades of making wine in British Columbia have not caused the brothers to forget what they learned about making Riesling in German. They make delicate Rieslings like this, with fragrant aromas and flavours of peaches and citrus. The wine’s fruity finish disguises its dryness – there is no austerity in the structure. Clean and fresh, this is a charming Riesling. 88 points.
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Classic 2005 ($12.99)
This is the same base wine as the dry Riesling, with a similar floral fragrance. The flavours show more peaches, less citrus and the palate is fuller, all because this wine has about 16 grams of residual sugar per litre. This wine, an ideal aperitif, is just as popular with Gehringer consumers as the dry version. Nearly half of Gehringer’s consumers choose this style; the other half want dry Riesling. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Private Reserve Riesling 2005 ($14.99)
A wine with more intensity, more mineral and more citrus than the other Gehringer Rieslings, this reflects what Walter calls “the Nth degree of farming” his estate-grown Riesling. Finished in stainless steel (like most of Gehringer white wines), this Riesling shows weighty, concentrated flavours of citrus and nectarine, with a dry finish. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Ehrenfelser Dry 2005 ($12.99)
This is one of three major Okanagan wineries (the others are CedarCreek and Summerhill) that champion Ehrenfelser, a reasonably early ripening variety created almost a century ago in Germany by crossing Riesling and Silvaner. This wine has classic aromas and flavours of peaches and minerals, with admirable restraint on the variety’s sometimes exuberant fruitiness. The dry finish makes the wine suitable with food. 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Ehrenfelser Classic 2005 ($12.99)
As with the Riesling, the Classic retains enough residual sugar to add fleshiness and honey to the peach flavours. This wine is often paired with Oriental cuisine. Reflecting consumer preference, this style accounts for about 70% of Gehringer’s sales of Ehrenfelser. 87.
Gehringer Brothers, Auxerrois 2005 ($12.99)
On tasting the Gehringer wine, it is difficult to understand why Auxerrois struggles for profile among consumers. This wine has richly layered flavours of pears, mangoes and minerals, with a trace of residual sugar so finely balanced that the finish seems dry. This is a fine example of the understated clean winemaking style of Gehringer. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Pinot Gris Private Reserve 2005 ($14.99)
The wine shows the classic aromas and flavours of pears and honeydew melons, with a note of spice as well as earthiness. The texture is rich, almost fat. 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Optimum Pinot Gris 2005 ($19.99)
A wine with attractively fresh, fruity aromas, this has intense flavours of lime, pear, anise and other spices. The vibrant acidity gives the wine a crisp, zesty finish. A light touch of French oak adds to the complexity, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. 91.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Chardonnay 2005 ($13.99)
A wine with bright, vibrant flavours, this fruit-driven wine shows only the lightest touch of oak. The flavours include spice, citrus, apples and a medley of tropical notes. The finish is crisply refreshing. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99)
This is an immensely satisfying white, beginning with its lively spearmint aroma. The flavours carry through with mint, gooseberry and minerals. The edgy acidity gives the wine both grip and a cleansing finish. New Zealand vintners will be envious. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Schönburger-Gewürztraminer 2005 ($13.49)
For many years, Gehringer Brothers championed wines made exclusively from Schönburger, another variety developed in German to ripen early with good sugar. The parent grapes are Pinot Noir, Chasselas and Muscat Hamburg, and it is the Muscat character that dominates, with intensely spicy aromas but very soft acidity. Gehringer addresses the lack of acidity by blending it 50/50 with Gewürztraminer. The appealing result is an aromatic white on steroids: spicy orange zest aromas, spicy fruit and raisin pie on the palate, with only a touch of residual sugar. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Cuvée Noire 2005 ($12.99)
Here is an honest wine – a soft, unoaked easy-drinking red light enough and soft enough to appeal to those who want to enjoy wine without getting intellectual about it. This is a blend of Chancellor (85%) and Cabernet Franc. A French hybrid, Chancellor once was important in Okanagan vineyards because it yields pleasant, if simple wines, somewhat recalling Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gehringer wine shows attractive cherry flavours, some spice and almost no tannin. Gehringer often wins “best red” with this wine in any competition where consumers vote for the “people’s choice.” 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Pinot Noir Private Reserve 2005 ($14.99)
Very lightly oaked, this is a soft, charming wine with flavours of strawberries and a hint of spice. The wine is easy-drinking and approachable. 87.
Gehringer Brothers, Optimum Pinot Noir 2005 ($19.99)
The winery makes this reserve tier Pinot Noir by selecting the top wines made each vintage. There was a good selection in 2005, one of the best, most balanced vintages ever in the Okanagan. This wine shows a velvety fullness on the palate, with soft tannins, flavours of cherries and with a delicate spice on the finish. What the wine lacks in intensity it makes up in charm. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Cabernet-Merlot 2005 ($14.99)
This wine is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The structure is firm, with flavours of red currants, cassis and spice set lightly on French oak. The wine is youthful, not yet showing its potential. 85.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot 2005 ($14.99)
Dark in colour, this wine has ripe, juicy flavours of blackberries, plums and liquorice, with a hint of vanilla. The ripe tannins give the wine an excellent structure for aging up to five years; but its is drinking so well now that there is not much reason to age one of the Okanagan’s best value red wines. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Icewine 2004 ($44.99 for 350 ml)
This recalls many German Eisweins, with the racy acidity that balances the wine’s considerable sweetness. There are flavours of honey, tobacco and marmalade, making for a complex dessert wine. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine 2004 ($44.99)
As an Icewine, the Ehrenfelser has its full array of tropical fruits on display – exotic flavours of ripe peaches, mangoes, guava, burnished with honey and caramel. The richness and the golden hue of this wine give it away as an Icewine picked later in the season, when the grapes had begun to shrivel. The finish is lushly sweet. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine 2005 ($44.99)
Icewine grapes were picked earlier in the season in the 2005 vintage, when the grapes still were healthy and plump. This is a vibrantly fresh Icewine with flavours of ripe pineapples, enhanced with delicate honey notes. Tart, mouth-watering acidity give this lively wine a clean and appealing finish. 91.
~ John Schreiner, British Columbia Regional Correspondent
To comment on John Schreiner’s writings and thoughts, contact him at j.schreiner@appellationamerica.com
Nothing special has been planned for the anniversary. In any event, the first vintage Walter and brother Gordon made for their winery was 1985 – a more important date in Walter’s recollection.
He and his younger brother run the most unpretentious winery in the south Okanagan. It is the largest winery in British Columbia without a web site – just one example of how little desire the brothers have in being flashy. This is one of only a handful of wineries still providing free samples in its tasting room, even though a substantial number of wine tourists stop by during the season.
Indeed, the brothers leave money on the table all the time. From their very first sales season (when they sold out by Christmas), the brothers have charged less for quality wines than virtually all of their peers. Today, when others are testing the market with $40 to $60 table wines, the brothers sell no wine except Icewine for more than $20 a bottle.
For example, this summer Gehringer Brothers is releasing a very well made 2005 Merlot for just $15 a bottle. This is the best value red wine in the Okanagan this year.
Their father, Helmut, and their uncle Karl, immigrated to the Okanagan from Germany, establishing various businesses before the brothers were born. Walter was born in 1955; Gordon in 1959. The Gehringer family conceived their estate winery in 1973 when Walter was finishing high school. At the time, British Columbia had only half a dozen wineries.
The family went about realizing its objective with meticulous preparation. Walter was dispatched to the renowned University of Geisenheim in Germany. A star pupil, he was the first Canadian in 1978 to graduate from Geisenheim. His brother got his winemaking degree at Weinsberg, another German wine school. The two universities have different approaches: Geisenheim is research-oriented while Weinsberg is more practical. The choice of different schools was deliberate, for it equipped the brothers with different but complementary skills.
While the brothers were at school, their father and uncle spent seven years researching microclimates on the Okanagan. In 1981, the family finally chose a vineyard site, half of a peninsula jutting out into the valley with excellent southeastern exposure. Fourteen years later, they bought the other half and now own 26 hectares of vineyard, supporting (along with purchased grapes) an annual production of about 30,000 cases.
Careful students of climate, the Gehringers initially planted (or retained some vines already planted) white varieties judged either to be winter hardy (such as Verdelet and Riesling) or sufficiently early ripening (like Schönburger) to be picked long before frost hit the vineyards. In the Okanagan’s previous 50 or 60 years of grape growing, hard freezes had a habit of devastating the vines every seven to 10 years. The Gehringer brothers were not taking a chance with risky varieties. Their caution seemed warranted in 1983 when a hard winter damaged many of their Schönburger vines.
As well, the varieties planted were those they had worked with in Germany. Walter, for example, apprenticed at the Guntrum winery on the Rhine. Their training enabled the brothers to launch with white wines, typically Germanic in style, that were clean, fresh, fruity and consistently appealing. Success came quickly. A few years after Gehringer Brothers opened, the federal government did a tasting to select wines for Canadian embassies. The brothers submitted five wines and all were chosen.
When the brothers bought the adjoining half of their peninsula in 1995 (which they call the Dry Rock Vineyard), it still was planted largely with hybrid varieties. They replanted, but not with German varieties; instead, they filled the vineyard with such French vines as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
This decision, while somewhat market driven, resulted from the brothers noting that the Okanagan climate is warming and the French varieties no longer are as risky as they once were. Today, there is plenty of data and research to support that. A decade ago, the Gehringers were among the first in the valley to pick up on the warming trend.
Today, the Gehringer Brothers portfolio is remarkably broad. The Germanic whites with which they made their initial reputation remain in the vineyard and remain popular. In fact, Walter believes that the warmer winters have extended the longevity of the vines. He once expected he would start replanting when vines reach 25 or so years but, since there is no sign of declining productivity, he has no idea when he will need to replant.
At the same time, the French vines are performing very well. The Dry Rock Sauvignon Blanc, for example, is as crisp and refreshingly zesty as a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
In recent years, the quality of the fruit from their vineyards has enabled the Gehringers to launch reserve tier wines, designated Optimum.
Predictably, the wines, if understated, are delicious – and priced slightly lower than everyone else’s reserve wines.
The following are my notes of Gehringer Brothers current releases (all wines are VQA – Okanagan Valley):
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Dry 2005 ($12.99)
Two decades of making wine in British Columbia have not caused the brothers to forget what they learned about making Riesling in German. They make delicate Rieslings like this, with fragrant aromas and flavours of peaches and citrus. The wine’s fruity finish disguises its dryness – there is no austerity in the structure. Clean and fresh, this is a charming Riesling. 88 points.
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Classic 2005 ($12.99)
This is the same base wine as the dry Riesling, with a similar floral fragrance. The flavours show more peaches, less citrus and the palate is fuller, all because this wine has about 16 grams of residual sugar per litre. This wine, an ideal aperitif, is just as popular with Gehringer consumers as the dry version. Nearly half of Gehringer’s consumers choose this style; the other half want dry Riesling. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Private Reserve Riesling 2005 ($14.99)
A wine with more intensity, more mineral and more citrus than the other Gehringer Rieslings, this reflects what Walter calls “the Nth degree of farming” his estate-grown Riesling. Finished in stainless steel (like most of Gehringer white wines), this Riesling shows weighty, concentrated flavours of citrus and nectarine, with a dry finish. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Ehrenfelser Dry 2005 ($12.99)
This is one of three major Okanagan wineries (the others are CedarCreek and Summerhill) that champion Ehrenfelser, a reasonably early ripening variety created almost a century ago in Germany by crossing Riesling and Silvaner. This wine has classic aromas and flavours of peaches and minerals, with admirable restraint on the variety’s sometimes exuberant fruitiness. The dry finish makes the wine suitable with food. 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Ehrenfelser Classic 2005 ($12.99)
As with the Riesling, the Classic retains enough residual sugar to add fleshiness and honey to the peach flavours. This wine is often paired with Oriental cuisine. Reflecting consumer preference, this style accounts for about 70% of Gehringer’s sales of Ehrenfelser. 87.
Gehringer Brothers, Auxerrois 2005 ($12.99)
On tasting the Gehringer wine, it is difficult to understand why Auxerrois struggles for profile among consumers. This wine has richly layered flavours of pears, mangoes and minerals, with a trace of residual sugar so finely balanced that the finish seems dry. This is a fine example of the understated clean winemaking style of Gehringer. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Pinot Gris Private Reserve 2005 ($14.99)
The wine shows the classic aromas and flavours of pears and honeydew melons, with a note of spice as well as earthiness. The texture is rich, almost fat. 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Optimum Pinot Gris 2005 ($19.99)
A wine with attractively fresh, fruity aromas, this has intense flavours of lime, pear, anise and other spices. The vibrant acidity gives the wine a crisp, zesty finish. A light touch of French oak adds to the complexity, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. 91.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Chardonnay 2005 ($13.99)
A wine with bright, vibrant flavours, this fruit-driven wine shows only the lightest touch of oak. The flavours include spice, citrus, apples and a medley of tropical notes. The finish is crisply refreshing. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($14.99)
This is an immensely satisfying white, beginning with its lively spearmint aroma. The flavours carry through with mint, gooseberry and minerals. The edgy acidity gives the wine both grip and a cleansing finish. New Zealand vintners will be envious. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Schönburger-Gewürztraminer 2005 ($13.49)
For many years, Gehringer Brothers championed wines made exclusively from Schönburger, another variety developed in German to ripen early with good sugar. The parent grapes are Pinot Noir, Chasselas and Muscat Hamburg, and it is the Muscat character that dominates, with intensely spicy aromas but very soft acidity. Gehringer addresses the lack of acidity by blending it 50/50 with Gewürztraminer. The appealing result is an aromatic white on steroids: spicy orange zest aromas, spicy fruit and raisin pie on the palate, with only a touch of residual sugar. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Cuvée Noire 2005 ($12.99)
Here is an honest wine – a soft, unoaked easy-drinking red light enough and soft enough to appeal to those who want to enjoy wine without getting intellectual about it. This is a blend of Chancellor (85%) and Cabernet Franc. A French hybrid, Chancellor once was important in Okanagan vineyards because it yields pleasant, if simple wines, somewhat recalling Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gehringer wine shows attractive cherry flavours, some spice and almost no tannin. Gehringer often wins “best red” with this wine in any competition where consumers vote for the “people’s choice.” 86.
Gehringer Brothers, Pinot Noir Private Reserve 2005 ($14.99)
Very lightly oaked, this is a soft, charming wine with flavours of strawberries and a hint of spice. The wine is easy-drinking and approachable. 87.
Gehringer Brothers, Optimum Pinot Noir 2005 ($19.99)
The winery makes this reserve tier Pinot Noir by selecting the top wines made each vintage. There was a good selection in 2005, one of the best, most balanced vintages ever in the Okanagan. This wine shows a velvety fullness on the palate, with soft tannins, flavours of cherries and with a delicate spice on the finish. What the wine lacks in intensity it makes up in charm. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Cabernet-Merlot 2005 ($14.99)
This wine is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The structure is firm, with flavours of red currants, cassis and spice set lightly on French oak. The wine is youthful, not yet showing its potential. 85.
Gehringer Brothers, Dry Rock Vineyards Merlot 2005 ($14.99)
Dark in colour, this wine has ripe, juicy flavours of blackberries, plums and liquorice, with a hint of vanilla. The ripe tannins give the wine an excellent structure for aging up to five years; but its is drinking so well now that there is not much reason to age one of the Okanagan’s best value red wines. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Riesling Icewine 2004 ($44.99 for 350 ml)
This recalls many German Eisweins, with the racy acidity that balances the wine’s considerable sweetness. There are flavours of honey, tobacco and marmalade, making for a complex dessert wine. 88.
Gehringer Brothers, Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine 2004 ($44.99)
As an Icewine, the Ehrenfelser has its full array of tropical fruits on display – exotic flavours of ripe peaches, mangoes, guava, burnished with honey and caramel. The richness and the golden hue of this wine give it away as an Icewine picked later in the season, when the grapes had begun to shrivel. The finish is lushly sweet. 89.
Gehringer Brothers, Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine 2005 ($44.99)
Icewine grapes were picked earlier in the season in the 2005 vintage, when the grapes still were healthy and plump. This is a vibrantly fresh Icewine with flavours of ripe pineapples, enhanced with delicate honey notes. Tart, mouth-watering acidity give this lively wine a clean and appealing finish. 91.
~ John Schreiner, British Columbia Regional Correspondent
To comment on John Schreiner’s writings and thoughts, contact him at j.schreiner@appellationamerica.com
