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Feature Article
Steve MacRostie, leading the flock of Los Carneros producers
'I, for one, do think that Carneros is broad enough to include a handful of unique sub-appellations. At the very least the east (Napa) and west (Sonoma) sides will emerge as very different growing areas.'
by
Scott London
February 3, 2004
AA:
You are one of the modern pioneers of the Carneros AVA. You source fruit from not only your own vineyard, but several growers throughout the appellation, as well. What factors, such as microclimate and clonal selection, do you consider when sourcing fruit from growers?
SM: We are looking for long term relationships where growers are committed to farming with the highest standards of quality. We want to be involved in making recommendations on a year-round basis and expect the grower to be receptive to our input. Obtaining a variety of clones and locations is the easy part these days. More challenging, is finding that individual grower or operation that delivers something special when we taste all the wines after harvest is over.
AA:
On the topic of clonal selection, you have been harvesting Pinot Noir fruit from your own vineyard on Wildcat Mountain for a few vintages now. What Pinot clones did you consider when planting your vines there? Why did you choose what you did and are there any viticultural comparisons to any specific Burgundian vineyards?
SM: There are no comparisons to Burgundian vineyards. We are in California, and we strive to make the most compelling wine possible from our site. I considered only what was known at the time we planted the vineyard in terms of interesting clonal selections. I tasted many lots of wine that offered comparisons among various clones. In the end we may find that some clones will be successful on our site, and some will not. There is no way to determine these things before going through the planting of the vineyard, making the wine, and seeing what we end up with.
AA: Looking back to the early 1980’s, when Los Carneros was being petitioned for AVA status, there was some argument from growers on the Napa side that the appellation should be divided in two – one being 'Carneros-Napa', the other 'Carneros-Sonoma', so wineries would not have to give up the use of the Napa and Sonoma names. Do you think that the reputation of Carneros wines has progressed to the point where consumers recognize Carneros as a completely separate and unique viticultural area, with no need to associate itself with the broader appellations?
SM: I do think so, with some qualification. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are now recognized as great performers in Carneros, but we find there is still some resistance to Merlot labeled simply 'Carneros'. As a result, my winery labels that variety with the addition of 'Napa Valley' to the Carneros designation.
AA: Pinot Noir, more so than any other varietal, is associated to place, as with the vineyards and communes of Burgundy. The wineries of Carneros have developed a sense of place in the broader sense that a Pinot Noir from Carneros is simply that - a 'Carneros Pinot Noir'. Have you identified more specific and unique microclimates within the appellation, and, if so, is there a movement to further delineate sub-appellations within Carneros? How about going a step further and identifying the great single vineyards or the "Crus" of Carneros?
SM: You have asked a key question here. I, for one, do think that Carneros is broad enough to include a handful of unique sub-appellations. At the very least the east (Napa) and west (Sonoma) sides will emerge as very different growing areas. So far most of the higher profile properties are in Napa, where there has been greater development. But I am involved in developing a vineyard in the very cool western Sonoma side and have knowledge of other wines being made from that side. I believe the Sonoma side will yield some very interesting wines in the next few years. As for the idea of crus, the Carneros Quality Alliance will host a series of events in April this year, one of which is a tasting of small production lots from individual vineyards. We are anxious to show off the compelling quality of these wines produced in tiny quantities! I, for one, am completely committed to working on developing unique wines from individual vineyards, and I know others are, as well.
AA: In most European wine regions, vineyard irrigation is not permitted in the production of quality wines (AOC, DOC, etc). In Carneros many vignerons do irrigate. If appellations are delineated due to their ecological uniqueness, natural rainfall amounts being part of that, do you think irrigation should be regulated in AVA designated wines?
SM: I hope not. Farming grapes with the precision of regulated deficit irrigation is the way to go, according to state-of-the-art knowledge. While I have no problem with dry farming, it requires very specific conditions to work properly, and such conditions – sufficiently deep soil with the ability to hold a season’s worth of moisture for plants with deep enough roots to find it – are rarely found in Carneros.
AA: Continuing with the comparisons to European 'appellation-of-origin' regualtions, are there any other aspects of viticulture, such as maximum yields, planting density, varietal selection, etc, that you think should be regulated by the TTB?
SM: Again, I do not favor more government regulation of our industry. I prefer to see each producer respond to the challenges of his or her site, growing the best quality fruit, then competing in the market on a level playing field.
AA: Carneros is best known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production, both for still and sparkling wines, and to a much lesser degree some Bordeaux varieties. Is there a place for other cool-climate varietals in Carneros? Have you had any successful or unsuccessful experiments with other varietals?
SM: We have had success with Syrah, a variety that makes interesting wine in a range of climates. Carneros is cool, but has sufficient heat accumulation to ripen Syrah. There are, at present, a handful of producers, in addition to us, making Carneros Syrah.
AA: Are there any varieties currently being grown in Los Carneros that you think shouldn’t be there, but are there more because of their market popularity than a good fit with the terroir?
SM: It is too early to tell. Personally, I do not have enough knowledge of the few wines in this category to make a judgement.
AA: In 1986, UC Davis conducted a structured tasting to determine if there was a consistent Carneros style for Pinot Noir. The result of that tasting showed overwhelmingly that there was a Carneros style, characterized by "fresh berry, berry jam, cherry and spice". Do you feel that these characteristics still represent the Carneros style in light of so many changes in wine making and viticultural practices over the last 18 years? Do consumers recognize a unique Carneros style?
SM: Much has changed in the years since that 1986 tasting. You are quite right to point out the advances in viticulture and winemaking, which have made huge changes in Carneros wines, and reveal the need to revisit the issue of character profiling Carneros wines. However, I do think consumers recognize the berry jam and dark fruit character of our wines.
AA: If there is, in fact, a distinct Carneros-style today, how much of the style is attributable to terroir, and how much derives from winemakers modeling their wines on consumer expectations and flavor trends?
SM: This is a difficult question, but the answer lies in both. Certainly, terroir plays the central role, but winemaking manipulation is now a large influence as well. While I applaud the trend to pick somewhat riper fruit, based on flavor, and work the fermentor to extract as much as the grapes have to give, the practice of picking over-ripe grapes and making wines devoid of structure and varietal character is a mistake. I think the taste of any wine should state clearly where it is from, and have the structure of tannin and acid to allow it to age. That means using fruit that is just-right ripe, not over-ripe.
AA: The strong consumer recognition of the Carneros appellation, proves that 'knowing wines by where they come from' is possible in America. However, such appellation consciousness has been so slow to develop for most other appellation names. How can the wine industry increase this understanding of the 'importance-of-place' in the mindset of America's wine drinkers?
SM: More knowledge on the part of consumers will come with time. We are still a nation of wine novices, but I continue to be encouraged with the increase in sophistication I have witnessed in my years in the business. The industry needs to keep up with the effort to provide education to the public. This is a big job, and we have barely scratched the surface.
SM: We are looking for long term relationships where growers are committed to farming with the highest standards of quality. We want to be involved in making recommendations on a year-round basis and expect the grower to be receptive to our input. Obtaining a variety of clones and locations is the easy part these days. More challenging, is finding that individual grower or operation that delivers something special when we taste all the wines after harvest is over.
AA:
On the topic of clonal selection, you have been harvesting Pinot Noir fruit from your own vineyard on Wildcat Mountain for a few vintages now. What Pinot clones did you consider when planting your vines there? Why did you choose what you did and are there any viticultural comparisons to any specific Burgundian vineyards?
SM: There are no comparisons to Burgundian vineyards. We are in California, and we strive to make the most compelling wine possible from our site. I considered only what was known at the time we planted the vineyard in terms of interesting clonal selections. I tasted many lots of wine that offered comparisons among various clones. In the end we may find that some clones will be successful on our site, and some will not. There is no way to determine these things before going through the planting of the vineyard, making the wine, and seeing what we end up with.
AA: Looking back to the early 1980’s, when Los Carneros was being petitioned for AVA status, there was some argument from growers on the Napa side that the appellation should be divided in two – one being 'Carneros-Napa', the other 'Carneros-Sonoma', so wineries would not have to give up the use of the Napa and Sonoma names. Do you think that the reputation of Carneros wines has progressed to the point where consumers recognize Carneros as a completely separate and unique viticultural area, with no need to associate itself with the broader appellations?
SM: I do think so, with some qualification. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are now recognized as great performers in Carneros, but we find there is still some resistance to Merlot labeled simply 'Carneros'. As a result, my winery labels that variety with the addition of 'Napa Valley' to the Carneros designation.
AA: Pinot Noir, more so than any other varietal, is associated to place, as with the vineyards and communes of Burgundy. The wineries of Carneros have developed a sense of place in the broader sense that a Pinot Noir from Carneros is simply that - a 'Carneros Pinot Noir'. Have you identified more specific and unique microclimates within the appellation, and, if so, is there a movement to further delineate sub-appellations within Carneros? How about going a step further and identifying the great single vineyards or the "Crus" of Carneros?
SM: You have asked a key question here. I, for one, do think that Carneros is broad enough to include a handful of unique sub-appellations. At the very least the east (Napa) and west (Sonoma) sides will emerge as very different growing areas. So far most of the higher profile properties are in Napa, where there has been greater development. But I am involved in developing a vineyard in the very cool western Sonoma side and have knowledge of other wines being made from that side. I believe the Sonoma side will yield some very interesting wines in the next few years. As for the idea of crus, the Carneros Quality Alliance will host a series of events in April this year, one of which is a tasting of small production lots from individual vineyards. We are anxious to show off the compelling quality of these wines produced in tiny quantities! I, for one, am completely committed to working on developing unique wines from individual vineyards, and I know others are, as well.
AA: In most European wine regions, vineyard irrigation is not permitted in the production of quality wines (AOC, DOC, etc). In Carneros many vignerons do irrigate. If appellations are delineated due to their ecological uniqueness, natural rainfall amounts being part of that, do you think irrigation should be regulated in AVA designated wines?
SM: I hope not. Farming grapes with the precision of regulated deficit irrigation is the way to go, according to state-of-the-art knowledge. While I have no problem with dry farming, it requires very specific conditions to work properly, and such conditions – sufficiently deep soil with the ability to hold a season’s worth of moisture for plants with deep enough roots to find it – are rarely found in Carneros.
AA: Continuing with the comparisons to European 'appellation-of-origin' regualtions, are there any other aspects of viticulture, such as maximum yields, planting density, varietal selection, etc, that you think should be regulated by the TTB?
SM: Again, I do not favor more government regulation of our industry. I prefer to see each producer respond to the challenges of his or her site, growing the best quality fruit, then competing in the market on a level playing field.
AA: Carneros is best known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production, both for still and sparkling wines, and to a much lesser degree some Bordeaux varieties. Is there a place for other cool-climate varietals in Carneros? Have you had any successful or unsuccessful experiments with other varietals?
SM: We have had success with Syrah, a variety that makes interesting wine in a range of climates. Carneros is cool, but has sufficient heat accumulation to ripen Syrah. There are, at present, a handful of producers, in addition to us, making Carneros Syrah.
AA: Are there any varieties currently being grown in Los Carneros that you think shouldn’t be there, but are there more because of their market popularity than a good fit with the terroir?
SM: It is too early to tell. Personally, I do not have enough knowledge of the few wines in this category to make a judgement.
AA: In 1986, UC Davis conducted a structured tasting to determine if there was a consistent Carneros style for Pinot Noir. The result of that tasting showed overwhelmingly that there was a Carneros style, characterized by "fresh berry, berry jam, cherry and spice". Do you feel that these characteristics still represent the Carneros style in light of so many changes in wine making and viticultural practices over the last 18 years? Do consumers recognize a unique Carneros style?
SM: Much has changed in the years since that 1986 tasting. You are quite right to point out the advances in viticulture and winemaking, which have made huge changes in Carneros wines, and reveal the need to revisit the issue of character profiling Carneros wines. However, I do think consumers recognize the berry jam and dark fruit character of our wines.
AA: If there is, in fact, a distinct Carneros-style today, how much of the style is attributable to terroir, and how much derives from winemakers modeling their wines on consumer expectations and flavor trends?
SM: This is a difficult question, but the answer lies in both. Certainly, terroir plays the central role, but winemaking manipulation is now a large influence as well. While I applaud the trend to pick somewhat riper fruit, based on flavor, and work the fermentor to extract as much as the grapes have to give, the practice of picking over-ripe grapes and making wines devoid of structure and varietal character is a mistake. I think the taste of any wine should state clearly where it is from, and have the structure of tannin and acid to allow it to age. That means using fruit that is just-right ripe, not over-ripe.
AA: The strong consumer recognition of the Carneros appellation, proves that 'knowing wines by where they come from' is possible in America. However, such appellation consciousness has been so slow to develop for most other appellation names. How can the wine industry increase this understanding of the 'importance-of-place' in the mindset of America's wine drinkers?
SM: More knowledge on the part of consumers will come with time. We are still a nation of wine novices, but I continue to be encouraged with the increase in sophistication I have witnessed in my years in the business. The industry needs to keep up with the effort to provide education to the public. This is a big job, and we have barely scratched the surface.
