Bordeaux is the word that springs to mind...and palate...for many who’ve experienced the complex elegance of Long Island reds, particularly those from the North Fork where most of the island’s 3,000 acres of vineyards and 30 wineries are located. The Bordeaux comparison really isn’t so far fetched. Some attribute it to the fact that the most planted grapes on the North Fork are the Bordeaux varieties Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, but these same grapes are found in vineyards from here to California, rarely yielding the same result. What makes North Fork reds so Bordeaux-esque is the climate. Three great bodies of Gulf Stream-influenced water surround the narrow peninsula. Long Island Sound is to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the south, and in the middle, splitting the two forks, is Peconic Bay. All three create a very moderate climate and an extended growing season that is over a month longer than other New York wine regions. However, maritime climates are susceptible to unpredictable autumn weather, and some vintages can end in a wet harvest and disappointing wines. Even this downside of the North Fork AVA rings of Bordeaux, where vintage variation has always been a fact of life and an important part of marketing.